Trešnjevka - Place Where Zagreb Feels Real
My story isn't very different from other Zagreb student stories. I left my hometown Šibenik five years ago to try my luck in the capital, and I found it in the western part of the city. This is a story about Trešnjevka.
Trešnjevka is a pretty large neighbourhood. When I first got here, I thought I would never reveal all its secret passages, shortcuts, and hidden beauties. But during the course of time, I got to like this place so much that I can't imagine living in any other neighbourhood.
Trešnjevka has been mentioned for the first time back in the 19th century as a prosperous neighbourhood. During the 20th century, Trešnjevka has spread significantly due to industrialization and urbanisation of Zagreb. Have I mentioned that it is actually quite large? I did, didn't I? :). It is divided into the northern and southern part, the former being the old and traditional Trešnjevka, as the natives like to call it. The new part of the neighbourhood spread rapidly, almost uncontrollably as more and more people were fascinated by the attractiveness of urban Zagreb life.
Old Trešnjevka, however, remained almost the same, and it is one of the most nostalgic areas of the city. That is why I cherish it so much. But in my humble opinion, a place with a park big enough for both kids to play without bothering anyone, couples in love to have a picnic and old people to feed pigeons is a quite comfortable place to be living in. And that is why I live there.
You'll find everything here, from banks, unique pastries, and small shops to one of the best markets in Zagreb. Due to having 3 tram lines, Trešnjevka is also well connected with other parts of the town, especially with the city centre, because one line goes directly to the centre while another one takes you directly to the main railroad station. Pretty practical, right?
Although it is not nice or bright as much as the center of Zagreb is, which is, by the way, only 15 minutes away on foot, Trešnjevka has its own soul. Just sit somewhere near the market in the late morning hours and you will see what I am talking about - neighbours commenting the papers, grannies coming home carrying chocolates to their grandchildren, mechanic explaining to the worried man what exactly went wrong with the carburetor...
Trešnjevka (which comes from the word trešnja, the Croatian word for 'cherry'), has a unique character and charm, so it is not surprising that more and more tourists stay in hotels around the neighborhood. Besides the interesting nomenclature that was widely recognised by the local entrepreneurs and craftsmen, I also find fascinating how loud and quiet this place can be at the same time.
The combination of nostalgic memories and historical sights, such as wonderful Trešnjevački plac, makes Trešnjevka a perfect place to feel how Zagreb looked like during the last century.
Trešnjevački plac - Central place of Trešnjevka neighbourhood
Considering that I am an organic food fan, my everyday shopping cannot go without a visit to 'Trešnjevački plac'. That is a street name for the neighbourhood's market, the lifeline of the whole place. It is situated behind a row of flower shops on the small square at the crossway of Tratinska, Vukovarska, and Trakošćanska Street. You cannot miss its traditional red parasols. My advice is to take a walk around the eastern and western parts of the market to peruse products brought in by cultivators who have small, backyard farms. Their fruit and vegetables are always fresh and taste like it should taste. If you want to go shopping there, please 'Stick to local goods for a better taste.' This is a place where you get to feel a 'real' Zagreb.
Image credit: Lana Susa
Another thing that differentiates my neighbourhood from others is that in the summer, spring, fall and even in the winter, you will find coffee shops full of people. If you live in Zagreb, this will become a perfect way to spend your Saturday afternoon. At least, mine is.
This is just a suggestion, but try out No sikiriki – coffee shop owned by a famous Croatian hip-hop musician, named after the author's most popular song. It's a coffee shop with a great terrace and unique interior with lively atmosphere, just right for young people. So if you're young or feeling so, come and join me and my neighbours. We will be sipping our coffees and waiting for you to talk about how pretty the flowers were on todays market.
Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
Author: Slavica Furčić