Croatian National Theatre - Where Urban Culture Meets High Culture
This is what people think of when they talk about Europe, the heavily decorated yellow facade, the copper roof, countless windows, pillars, statues, giant and heavy curtains. Oh, and culture. Of course, we mustn't forget about the culture. This is what people think of when they talk about Europe. This is what the Croatian National Theatre is. It's as European as it gets and beautiful beyond words.
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
The Croatian National Theatre is, without a doubt, my favourite building in the whole of Zagreb. Although the building itself maybe isn't so spectacular, it's the whole setting that makes it so beautiful, if you ask me. Seeing how it's placed centrally, surrounded by arrays of buildings, seeing the playful colours of surrounding park and facades, the magic slowly begins to work. It all looks so majestic when combined together, and the theatre stands there looking like the king of the hill, making sure that Zagrebians get their share of high culture for more than a hundred years.
This beauty was designed by legendary Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Although the Croatian National Theatre was established in 1860, it was moved to a new building where it's located today in 1895. I could go on and on about the historical significance of the building and about all of the architectural details that can be found both interior and exterior wise. I could talk about ballet or opera.
I could talk about magnificent theatrical performances during the last century, but I won't. They deserve more than a couple of paragraphs as such kind of cultural experience can not be really described in words. They deserve better, and you should experience them in person. Going too deep into details wouldn't do the building justice, as the Croatian National Theatre is more than just a building. It has to be seen, touched and smelled in person. It has to be felt. What I am going to talk about is the significance of this building in our everyday lives. As always, it's the intangibles that count - tiny details that make you appreciate your favourite spots and make you proud whenever you come back after a long time away from Zagreb.
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
What sets the Croatian National Theatre apart from similar theatres throughout Europe is the lightness of its existence. Although we are talking about high culture, the microcosmos of this building simply refuses to take itself too seriously, and that's a wonderful thing. The lawn next to the theatre is one of the favourite meeting places for young Zagrebians. You would be hard-pressed to find a national theatre in the whole of Europe that boasts of such a friendly atmosphere. If you ever get the opportunity to visit Zagreb during spring, you'll see what I mean. The lawn I mentioned before is full of young people, enjoying the sunny day. It's not rare to see them playing the guitar and enjoying a can of cold beer. You can see young couples, friends, school and college colleagues - you name it, but, don't get fooled, older people enjoy it, too. They enjoy taking a casual stroll, basking in the sun or just having a casual conversation. It's this hippy-ish atmosphere that really sets it apart. It's irresistible.
The building is one of the favourite meeting places for extreme sports enthusiasts, as well, and you often get to see skaters and alike, pulling tricks and having a good time. It's hard to imagine that it's nothing more than a set of brick walls that separate singers practising opera from skaters doing tricks and, what's best, nobody seems to mind. It's like you are caught in some interdimensional rift where all those cultures coexist without any problems. That's the charm of this building. That's what really sets it apart.
Enjoying the Croatian National Theatre implies leading two different lives at once. During the day, you are dressed casually, lying on the blanket, sipping beer, just relaxing, enjoying the day and the sun that eases your mind, feeling so small compared to everything that surrounds you. Then, in almost superhero-like fashion, as the sun sets down, you change your clothes and you wear your best tuxedo or dress, listening to opera, absorbing the grandiose feeling that just oozes around you. That's the Croatian National Theatre for you. That's the place where everyone is invited and welcomed, be it night or day. That's the closest you'll get to leading a double-life of a superhero, trust me.
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
Author: Marko Pačar