Zagreb Has a Schnitzel, Too!
In the old days when we were part of the huge, long-gone Habsburg Monarchy, Vienna was the capital and all other cities looked up to it. Well, Zagreb certainly did, and the Austrian influence is present in much of Zagreb’s past and present. For a while, especially in the 19th century, during the golden age of the bourgeois class, Zagreb was even nicknamed “Little Vienna”. Lots of dishes and recipes from the Austrian metropolis were adopted, adjusted, copied… Given all that into account, it’s very interesting to know that there’s one thing we took from Vienna, but upgraded it big time. It does not enjoy the international popularity of the Vienna steak, or Wiener schnitzel, but you will be pleasantly surprised when you meet Zagreb Steak – zagrebački odrezak.
"Meet Zagreb Steak" Image credit: Restoran Vinodol
We all know that the Viennese counterpart, or the original, is breaded and pan-fried veal cutlet. You’ll see it served with a slice of lemon, and usually mashed potatoes or fries on the side. It’s a beloved and reliable classic for all ages. And actually, it’s not that old. The first written mention of the Wiener schnitzel dates back to 1831. Still, we can’t say that Viennese cooks were so specially ingenious and creative, because variations of this dish exist in many parts of Europe. No nation can really lay claim on the concept of a breaded cutlet because it’s pretty universal.
"Picture-perfect Zagreb steak." Image credit: Almo Čatlak
When you add a slice of ham and cheese to the veal cutlet, you get the Zagreb steak. That’s taking it to a whole new level, both in terms of taste and calorie count. Our own schnitzel is always breaded and fried, never only fried, unlike cordon bleu, a very similar specialty originating from Switzerland. Of course, those thin slices of ham and cheese have to be of good quality and the cheese is supposed to melt easily, creating an irresistible, mouth-watering sight when you cut through the steak for the first time. When filled, steaks can either be rolled or folded before being covered in flour, beaten eggs and bread crumbs. There’s no law forbidding you to prepare the Zagreb steak with pork or turkey, but it will always come second-hand to the genuine veal steak. Typically, for the traditional family lunch, Zagreb steak was served with risi e bisi (rice with peas), but this combination you will rarely see in regular restaurants or canteens.
“Zagreb steak as a treat in one of the mountain huts on Medvednica.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
It’s a sad fact that browsing through restaurant menus, one might find the Wiener Schnitzel much more represented than its Zagreb relative. Why is our own delicacy neglected in favour of the foreigner? Apart from the fact that Wiener schnitzel is universally a bigger name, we have to admit that its preparation is a bit cheaper and simpler, too. And that often counts. But fear not, Zagreb schnitzel is out there and you can find in easily. It’s very much present in Zagreb’s traditional, meat-oriented restaurants. To name just a few: Okrugljak, Zelen Dvor, Pri Zvoncu, Purger… In downtown Zagreb, the popular Vinodol serves it with a refreshing potato, beetroot and celery salad. In the city’s surroundings, we can mention restaurants Gabreku 1929 in Samobor, or Ribič in Veliko Trgovišće, which made a name on its legendary half-a-metre Zagreb steaks.
“Gigantic Zagreb steaks in Zagorje’s Ribič restaurant.” Image credit: Ribič FB
So, when life gives you a veal cutlet, add some ham and cheese and everything will be even better! Remember, size does matter, but it’s all about the balance and finesse. Even if there are similar dishes all over, we’re still proud to call this little carnivore slice of heaven by the name of our city.
Header image credit: Almo Čatlak
Author: Taste of Croatia