Pelinkovac - Bittersweet Medicine
The Germans have Jägermeister, probably the most famous brand among them, there’s also Underberg, the Hungarians have Unicum, the Czechs have Becherovka, and so on. Croatia is no exception. Here we have Pelinkovac. The name is pretty straight-explanatory, as it derives from the word pelin, for wormwood. Variations of it are also popular in the neighbouring countries. All major Croatian distilleries have their own version, but the oldest, best-known and most popular brand is made in Zagreb, by Badel. It goes by the name Badel Pelinkovac gorki.
“Pelinkovac is best served cold.” Image credit: Badel Pelinkovac FB page
Altough mean-looking, this dark brown and thick liqueur is not as strong as the usual local brandies, as the alcohol volume is “only” 28%. It is served cold, but without ice, preferably with a slice of lemon or orange. Pelinkovac functions well both as an aperitif and digestif. The old folks swear that it’s an excellent medicine for stomach troubles, and also improves your circulation. No doubt, take a few glasses and all your medical problems will be gone, at least for a while. What I like about this traditional drink is that it really appeals to all ages, all walks of life. In bars and cafes, you will see the elderly ordering it with their coffee or after lunch, as well as younger generations drinking it in clubs, even mixing it with coke. It’s quite universal - traditional and modern at the same time. Pelinkovac will never be able to compete with beer and wine in terms of market share and wide popularity, but it definitely has a solid niche. There’s nothing uncool about it.
“Halloween advertisment for Pelinkovac.” Image credit: Badel Pelinkovac FB page
Badel has a long tradition of producing their Pelinkovac, almost 150 years, without modifying the recipe and the old maceration method much. After the herbs are mixed with the base liquid, the mixture is left to age in wooden barrels. Later, part of the macerate is distilled in an old copper tank, which, they say, accounts for the special character that can’t be achieved using modern steel tanks. The recipe and the combination of herbs is a trade secret, which is the case in every distillery, however big or small, that produces this bitter-sweet drink. All the colours and aromas come from more than 20 herbs, no artificial additives are used. Of course, some sugar is needed to counterpart the bitterness of the wormwood. Historic documents say it even made it to the imperial court of Napoleon III. And if the French were keen on it, that means something.
“Antique Pelinkovac, a special edition, looking and tasting like 145 years ago.” Image credit: Badel Pelinkovac FB page
The distillery made a smart move for the 145th anniversary, when they launched Badel Antique Pelinkovac - a limited premium label made using the oldest recipe. The bottle is a replica of the original one, which is on display in Zagreb City Museum. It used to be advertised as “a liqueur for gentlemen and those who know how to enjoy their drink”. This anniversary edition shows how deep-rooted Pelinkovac is in the tradition and history of everyday life in Zagreb. As a drink, it’s not one of a kind in the whole wide world, but it’s ours and authentic, and we’re proud of it.
Header image credit: Badel Pelinkovac FB page
Author: Morana Zibar / Taste of Croatia