Not Your Everyday Duck

True, you don't see it as often as you see turkey or chicken. And no, we're not so big on duck all year round like the Czechs or some other nations. Duck is a rare luxury, and there's cheaper poultry around. Yet, in northern Croatia, roast duck is the ultimate winter specialty, a meal worthy of sharing with your loved ones on a very special day.

“Roast duck on a bed of mlinci.” Image credit: August vinarija & restoran

I know people that don't like duck meat, which I find hard to believe, but it's just not everyone's cup of tea. The fact is, duck meat is more similar to wild game than to poultry. It's darker and the percentage of fat is much higher. Traditionally, in the old days, when it was a big deal to kill a bird, poultry on the table was a symbol of abundance and prosperity – which is why it was reserved for special, festive occasions only. We don't complicate much, we don't do duck breast, duck confit, duck legs, this or that... When you have a duck, you take the whole thing and roast it nicely and carefully. Although nowadays you can find a whole frozen duck in supermarkets, it's inferior to wild duck or free-range duck. If you have your own little network of vendors at a farmers' market, ask around – somebody will surely know somebody who can hook you up.

“Modern version of roast duck with mlinci, available in Zrinjevac Park during Advent.” Image credit: Advent na Zrinjevcu FB

As I said, it's roast duck, period. But what do you serve it with? The default version is to pair duck with mlinci, our traditional type of pasta, actually thin dried flatbread torn into pieces and softened with boiled water or broth. When soft mlinci meet the fat dripping from the roasting duck, miracles happen. In Međimurje, the northernmost region in Croatia, it's also common to serve duck with buckwheat. And when you are out of other options, roast potatoes are not a crime. Sometimes you'll also see braised red cabbage on the side. To flavour things up, you can always stuff the duck with some apples or oranges and herbs. It should be roasted slowly, turning the heat up at the end. The result is tender meat and irresistibly crispy skin.

“Homemade roast duck with potatoes and root vegetables.” Image credit: Zlatko Gall

Which are the best places to go to when you want to enjoy this traditional roast? Destination number one would be Zagorje region, famous for its turkey, but not falling behind when it comes to duck or raca, as the bird is colloquially called here. Your best bet are traditional restaurants, especially the ones that have their own production or use ingredients from the neighbouring farms. I would suggest Klet Kozjak, Vuglec Breg, or Grešna Gorica. In Moslavina region, go to the charming August restaurant and winery. Plešivica region, southwest from Zagreb, renowned for its wines, has a share of duck-friendly places, too. If you are a wine aficionado, you should know that the best Pinot noir in Croatia comes from Plešivica, the perfect match for roast duck. Braje family, winemakers with a little rural restaurant, have their own duck farm, so it’s literally a zero-mile meal.

“Duck with mlinci to go! Street version by The Garden at Fuliranje.” Image credit: The Garden Bar & Kitchen FB

Back in Zagreb, for a taste of the old-school roast duck, aim for traditional restaurants focused on national dishes, not necessarily trendy, but where locals like to go. To mention a few, there’s Stari Fijaker in Mesnička Street, Kod Pere in Šalata, Potkova in Novi Zagreb, or Bicko in the southern suburbs. Medvedgrad pub in Ilica prepares roast duck with braised cabbage and apples on request. Bear in mind that the duck is a seasonal specialty, not an everyday dish, so it often needs to be reserved in advance.

Header Image Credit: Bicko FB

Author: Taste of Croatia, Morana Zibar