Long Live the Quince

I remember it as pear’s plumpier and way more fragrant cousin which you put somewhere in your dining room or living room, typically on a cupoboard, to make your living space smell nice. I think for many people that’s the main definition of quince - room refreshener. There’s even a phrase in Croatian “dunja s ormara” (quince from the cupboard), and that says it all. The second memory is kompot (fruit stewed in water with sugar and some spice), a relic of the 1980s. Which is quite nice, but when you’re a child, you only drink up the sweet juice, leave the sad cold boiled fruit aside and wait for a more attractive dessert. Naturally, I was rather suspicious towards a fruit that cannot be eaten raw. It took me a couple of decades to discover that quince is quite a versatile little thing in the kitchen, and very tasty.

“Quince, neglected autumn beauty.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Of course, my first encounter with a different use of the quince was the good ol’ rakija (brandy). Fermented and distilled, quinces really show great shape and can be considered a true delicacy in the realm of spirits. Unfortunately, quince brandy is not nearly as common as similar-style pear and plum brandies, which is a real shame. Liqueurs are also made, not bad at all, but in my opinion, the essence of quince is better preserved in a clear brandy. Speaking of drinks, some folks also make homemade quince juice or syrup, but nowadays it’s almost a lost art. Since the quince is high in tannins, vitamin C, antioxidants and useful minerals, drinking it in any form can only do you good. So they say.

“Quince is the ideal jam fruit.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

But let’s go back to confectionery and preserves, the area where the quice trully thrives. Raw quince is quite unpleasant and tart, that’s why people started cooking it. Luckily, it’s naturally full of pectin, the stuff usually used as gelling agent, making it the perfect choice for jams and marmalades. This is probably where the majority of Croatian quinces go to die a happy death. Still, quince preserves are mostly a homemade activity or a family farm product you stumble upon at an organic food market, not a mass-produced item you find in a supermarket. And in this case, quince is often mixed with apple to make the taste better. As dessert, there’s a special kind of thick jelly known under the name of kitnkez in Zagreb. The word derives from German for Quittenkäse, literally meaning “quince cheese”. It’s not a native recipe, because it can be found in many parts of Europe, especially in the Mediterranean. Zagreb follows the German, more precisely Austro-Hungarian tradition, while Dubrovnik, where it’s quite popular and called kotonjata (from Italian cotognata) follows this other, southern tradition. Couldn’t be simpler, just two ingredients: quince and sugar. Plus a lot of time and patience. Some versions include chopped walnuts or almonds, which makes a nice touch. Regardless the long tradition, it’s almost a miracle to find kitnkez in Zagreb’s sweet shops or pâtisseries. An exception to the rule is Princess in Gajeva Street, where it’s one of regular winter bestsellers.

“Kitnkez, one of many variations on the most popular quince dessert.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Next time you see a quince being taken for granted and used as a home decoration or fragrance, stop and take a minute to reflect on the fact that it’s actually destined to sweeten our lives. Knobby, furry and not much to look at, its true beauty lies inside and needs proper treatment to express itself.  

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Taste of Croatia