Kotlovina – One Pot to Rule Them All

In north-western Croatia, kotlovina is one of those old legendary dishes. It's not so much about the recipe and the meal itself, but rather about the special method and the whole ritual of preparing and enjoying this dish. And once you experience the sights and smells of kotlovina in progress, you are hooked and the taste can only seal the deal.

“Occasionally, you can witness the making of kotlovina in restaurants that cherish tradition, like Bicko.” Image credit: Bicko FB

In Croatian, kotao means cauldron, so the name of the dish refers to the equipment used for making it. Food from the cauldron, we could rephrase it. But this special cooking vessel is actually a large metal plate, deeper in the centre, resembling a broad-brimmed hat turned upside-down. It stands on a pedestal with a compartment where wood/charcoal is put, sort of an outdoor stove. So, not a cauldron, not a barbecue, but has some features of both. Obviously, it's designed to be used outdoors. Nowadays you can find restaurant versions prepared indoors, and you can also improvise at home, but it's just not the same. Not only because the flavour will not be the same, but because you lose the ritual and social elements. Traditionally, kotlovina was and still is a dish prepared at village fairs, when you have a hungry crowd and need hearty food that can last long and satisfy everyone. This custom is still alive – go to Hrelić flea market on a Sunday and taste for yourself.

“The biggest flea market in Zagreb can’t do without kotlovina.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

So, what exactly goes in kotlovina? First of all, the main ingredient is meat, a lot of meat. There's always pork, mostly cutlets and neck chops, but sausages are also often added. If you're adventurous, you can also throw in some other kinds of meat, like chicken, turkey or veal. First, the meat is fried in fat, and then moved to the shallow edge of the big round pan. While it's resting, a mix of vegetables and spice like paprika is cooked in the fat left over from the meat. There are literally dozens of combinations – almost always there will be onion, garlic, bell peppers, tomatoes, maybe also root vegetables, beans, mushrooms or potatoes. It's important to keep the juices flowing so you pour a bit of wine or broth every now and then. Meat is put back in the middle, together with the veggies and the sauce, and cooked slowly over low and steady fire until everything blends together perfectly. The impatient ones can dip bread in the sauce while waiting.

“Kotlovina is the signature dish of Kezele in Moslavina.” Image credit: Seoski turizam Kezele FB

Kotlovina is very practical – you can serve numerous portions over a long period of time, whenever there's demand, until it's gone. And no kotlovina survives the next day, trust me. Since it's a really rich dish, you don't need any special side dishes, especially if potatoes are involved. Yet, from personal experience, bacon bread dumplings make a great company. Beside excellent ingredients and proper equipment, for the best kotlovina you need a dedicated and experienced cook who is ready to stand by the pan for hours – all wise, calm and deft like a culinary Jedi knight. I hope you get the idea why the kotlovina ritual demands an outdoor space, a lot of time and a big gathering.

“Kotlovina is one of the juiciest and most irresistible meat dishes known to mankind.”
Image credit: Alen Britvarević

But where to find good kotlovina, especially if you're not a frequent visitor of farmers' fairs in Zagreb’s surroundings? I vouch for Kezele ecotourism farm and restaurant in Moslavina region, a 40-minute ride from Zagreb, where they take pride in their special family recipe passed down for generations. In Zagreb, occasionally a version of kotlovina can be found in traditional restaurants like Stari fijaker. Kotlovina is often connected with the town of Samobor and the surrounding villages, so if you drop by in time of local festivities like the celebration of Samobor Day or the Days of Rudarska Greblica (another local dish), it will definitely be there. And since it’s very much a social occasion, kotlovina competitions are often part of public events in small towns. Many weekend hikers from Zagreb look forward to a plate full of kotlovina in mountain huts like Oštrc or Japetić, if they're lucky. Be sure to keep your eyes open when you're roaming around rural north-western Croatia and jump at any opportunity to try this old, unique and delicious dish.

“Improvisation and experimenting are also important factors for the success of kotlovina.”
Image credit: Domagoj Jakopović Ribafish

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Morana Zibar / Taste of Croatia