50 Shades of Green at Zagreb's Markets
“Busy May day at Dolac market” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Many travellers, not only foodie geeks, know that food markets are the best places where you can truly experience an unknown city you are visiting for the first time. Food markets are strongly connected with the community and reflect the local way of life, revealing a lot that you can't find in usual travel guides. Zagreb does not have huge and spectacular food markets like Barcelona, Stockholm or London, but Zagrebians are proud of their traditional markets present in almost every bigger quarter of the city. For many citizens a visit to the local market, especially on Saturdays, is a family ritual, and our food or farmers markets are definitely an integral part of Zagreb’s identity.
“Explosion of greens” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
No surprise, when you ask the locals to name top 10 attractions in Zagreb, you can bet Dolac will be on all of them. Dolac is the central food and farmers market in Zagreb, the biggest one, located just behind Ban Jelačić Square, open every day since 1930. Nothing amazing in terms of architecture, but its sights, smells and tastes, as well as people, make it a special place. It consists of an open-air section with the recognizable Šestine-style red umbrellas, an indoor section and a separate fish market, all surrounded with cafes, bars, little restaurants and pastry shops catering for all tastes. May is my favourite time of year for strolling through Dolac and admiring the best foodstuffs from all over Croatia. Spring is in full bloom, summer is just around the corner, and Mother Nature is feeling very generous. Everything is like a big explosion of green. When you’re on the lookout for good food, don’t make any plans ahead. Take it easy, do a couple of rounds just observing what’s best, then let the inspiration hit you. On a warm and sunny day, especially closer to the weekend, Dolac is bustling with life and activity. You’ll find it no less colourful and lively at other bigger markets, like the busy Trešnjevka, popular Kvatrić or the charming little Britanac. Zagreb restaurants focused on local and seasonal ingredients are really enjoying this May abundance, which is clearly seen on their plates.
“Fresh greens from market to restaurant table” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Simply go with the flow and go green. Green garlic, spring onions and baby potatoes usually usher the way for the others. Baby spinach, young carrots, rocket salad, kohlrabi and green beans follow. Then it’s time to get busy opening up those tender little green pods - peas are here, along with broad beans from Dalmatia. Also coming from the Adriatic coast are the delicate artichokes, and you can still find some wild asparagus. Making a nice contrast to all the greens, it’s the peak season for Croatian strawberries. Among them all, branded under the name “Jagodica purgerica”, you’ll find early strawberries coming from Zagreb surroundings, luring you with their sweet smell before cherries come to steal their thunder. Many vendors will offer fresh herbs in bunches, but also as tiny seedlings in pots. Don’t be surprised to see nettle - stinging as it may be, it’s excellent in cream soups, risottos or pies.
“Young green peas” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
One of Zagreb’s favourite spring dishes and excellent way to use all these green goodies is a thick soup called “grašak s noklicama” (peas with fresh egg dumplings). Easy-peasy! Just simmer some diced onion, carrots, kohlrabi and peas, add chicken stock, seasoning and make little egg dumplings in the end. For an upgraded version, a kick of fresh dill does wonders.
“Young green pea stew” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Header image credit: Taste of Croatia
Author: Taste of Croatia