Kvatrić - Zagreb's Heart and Soul

Kvaternik Square or "Kvatrić", as the locals like to call it, is without a doubt my favorite neighborhood in Zagreb. I have changed a couple of different apartments in Zagreb and I always find myself in the proximity of Kvatrić. So you could say that my life in Zagreb (since I am not originally from Zagreb) has been tied to Kvatrić more than to any other neighborhood. But it's not just that familiarity that draws me to it, it's the inexplicable charm that Kvatrić just oozes with. Its family houses packed together, its cafes, parks and green areas, marketplace and flower stands, they all add up to the beauty that Kvatrić is known for.

Image credit: Lovro Laurenčić

By changing the roles over the years, Kvatrić has changed a lot, as well. It was built during the early 20th century, and during that time, it was one of the most advanced neighborhoods in the city. Its main activities were the ones of a custom-house and activities of military nature, and little or no civil activity was present in Kvatrić during that period. It didn’t take long, though, for it to fully blossom and become one of the most prominent residential areas and one of the best-known neighborhoods in the whole city.

It’s a lively area, full of small, old, privately owned stores and craft stores, hairdressers and tailors. It’s this kind of business tradition that, nowadays, is present only in few neighborhoods – one of them being Kvatrić. It might seem strange at first, but such small enterprises carry the old spirit of Zagreb. For example, if you find yourself in an old, family-owned barbershop, you basically don’t go there just to have your beard shaved. It’s a place where people exchange ideas, discuss politics, football, and other relevant topics. Although these kinds of enterprises are becoming a dying breed, they are still a fantastic place to experience true Zagreb, and Kvatrić has an abundance of them. Drop by some of these stores. See what they have to offer. You’ll learn more about Zagreb than you would by reading any tourist guide. It's this kind of day-to-day activity that makes not only Kvatrić but the whole of Zagreb so appealing. If you really want to experience Zagreb, you have to feel the street vibe. It's authentic vibe that comes from social traditions is what makes it so special, and Kvatrić is a great place to start exploring and wandering around.

Image credit: Lovro Laurenčić

Speaking of shops, it’s impossible to write about Kvatrić without mentioning “Nama” – the legendary department store that used to be one of the most popular destinations for shoppers a few decades ago. It’s not nearly as popular as it used to be, but it still has a certain charm that applies to the whole of Kvatrić neighborhood. It’s tough to explain, but that dynamic and vibrant mixture of old and new, old-fashioned and modern makes Kvatrić an appealing place. If you look around, it's tough not to notice the once popular, colorless building with giant “Nama” sign on it. You get a strange feeling just standing there. It's so modern and yet so vintage. The modernity of the square itself is being contrasted by small flower stands all around. Those two completely different worlds form together a charming and vibrant mixture that engages all senses.

You look down and you see the marketplace. Oh, and the marketplace – that’s also something that needs to be mentioned. Like other Zagreb’s marketplaces, the Kvatrić marketplace is vibrant and dynamic. A lot can be seen, and a lot can be bought here, mostly homemade or homegrown. Trams are running and ringing. People are going to the marketplace to buy some flowers, meat, cheese or fruit. It’s loud, lively, and full of colors and sounds, especially during autumn. And at times you may have a feeling that, somehow, you were teleported to somewhere in Italy. It can be crowded and noisy, but at the same time, it can be so intimate and relaxing. That’s Kvatrić, and I prefer it that way. Now go there and get lost in it, it's worth it.

Video credit: Tomislav Reskovic 

Header image credit: Lovro Laurenčić

Author: Marko Pačar