Untold Stories

Zagreb Christmas Off the Beaten Tourist Path

The countdown has almost ended—on November 30th, the Christmas festivities will take over Zagreb! Are you coming?

Advent Zagreb has become famous for its numerous locations throughout the city center. But did you know there are some off-the-beaten-track places you might miss? Let me point you to them. These are the places worth a visit throughout the year, and now we have a snowflakes-covered, Christmassy excuse to do so.

Just last week, I talked to a travel writer from the United States who traveled the world. He told me he visited Zagreb, and the highlight of his trip to Croatia was a visit to House of Cartoons Oto Reisinger. He said it was the most authentic thing he experienced, mainly thanks to the delightful interpretation of their guide. It's just one man's opinion, but I found it eye-opening to learn that the exhibition can have such an impact on someone. It's good to know that House of Cartoons prepares a special Christmas atmosphere in their unique style, so keep an eye on it. And why would you want to see something so specific as a local cartoonist's work? It's a perfect place to learn about the problematic history lightheartedly and get a perspective of the Croatian mindset throughout the time. Just a side note: Zagreb has become famous for its collection of peculiar exhibitions, and many of them have special Christmas editions.

An installation that shows the traditional Christmas decorations. Photo by Boška i Krešo / TZGZ

 

You're not up for something contemporary, you'd like to experience the genuine Christmas atmosphere? One stop is a must: The Ethnographic Museum. They have seasonal exhibitions and accompanying workshops. The building itself is quite a masterpiece, and even though it's situated in the narrow city center, it's often overlooked by tourists. It's an art nouveau building with a gorgeous allegory of Mother Croatia and golden decorations on the top, with its back facing a dome.

Photo by Etnografski muzej Zagreb

 

One of the most anticipated new locations is a small Jinglingz fair at Kvaternikov trg square (known as Kvatrić). This could be it if you're searching for a place packed with locals. Just a few tram stops from the main square or a half-an-hour walk, and you will reach Kvatrić. It's a part of the broader city center, but in its early days, the square was at the very end of the city. It was still an important area, surrounded by some significant liqueur factories. When the horse-driven trams were introduced to Zagreb, Kvatrić was almost immediately connected to other parts of the town. These days, the square is not used as a meeting spot as it used to be, so we hope that this Christmas season will bring new life to Kvatrić.

Just a few tram stops further down the road from Kvatrić, the Zagreb Zoo has its way of celebrating the end of the year. Well known for the pampering treatment of its residents, the management organizes a unique Christmas atmosphere for them and for the visitors alike. For the Zoo management, it's just another excuse to stay on their mission to educate the visitors about the animal world most seamlessly and creatively.

Photo by M.Tomaš/ Zagreb Tourist Board

 

A location that may seem off the path is the area around the Hunting Museum. That will take you to one of my personal favorite neighborhoods of Tuškanac. The neighborhood was created as a vacation haven for wealthy Zagrebers. Most of the houses were originally their summer houses. Bear that in mind when you walk around those streets. I could easily imagine myself in a summer house like that, could you? The Hunting Museum, for example, is placed in the art deco Vila Wohlmuth.

I'd go off the beaten path to admire Villa Wohlmuth

 

Workshops, storytelling performances, and a visit to the curious museum, which hides some interesting stories. You might discover a tale of friendship between India and former Yugoslavia in the shape of a tiger. Or a tale of a wandering reindeer who strayed from its path and reached Croatia!

This year, the jolly atmosphere of Advent in Zagreb is not reserved just for the main tourist routes. Why don’t we all follow the example of the wandering reindeer and explore all that Zagreb has to offer this Christmas season?

Header image credit: Julien Duval / Zagreb Tourist Board

Author: Iva Silla