Tomislavac square - built to greet the king
If you're searching for a place in Zagreb that really evokes Vienna, look no more! Join me for a short stroll through King Tomislav Square (Trg Kralja Tomislava).
Now that we're here, why don't we find a wormhole and travel back to just before the square was built? We don't have to go too far; let's stop in the 1800s. Look around you. There's nothing but a cornfield.
Then, one day, the city finds out the king is paying a visit. King Franz Joseph was coming to the town! At the time, Croatia was a kingdom that was a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and the emperor Franz Joseph bore the title of the king of Croatia as well. Even before the king's visit in 1895, the residents were annoyed as the train station was outside the city. This is so funny to imagine, as the central train station is considered part of the historical city center these days - it's only a 10-minute walk from the main square. Back then, they were annoyed they had to go through cornfields at night when the evening train from Budapest would arrive.
But the king is about to visit. They had to do something about the cornfields, didn't they? This wasn't supposed to be the first thing the king would see, so they built a beautiful park, calling it King Franz Joseph Square.
King Tomislav statue is a favourite gathering spot for people and pigeons of Zagreb.
If we skip forward on the square's timeline, Austro-Hungary fell apart. Like many other European countries, Croatia became incredibly proud of its national history. Zagreb renamed the square after King Tomislav. In 2025, Croatia celebrates 1100 years of King Tomislav becoming the first Croatian king—internationally recognized, one might add.
Some representative buildings surround the square. The train station is on the south side, and the art pavilion is on the north. Along the east and the west side, a harmonious line of buildings. Harmonious at first glance, but go ahead and take a better look. Each of them is special, and each shows off the wealth of their original owners.
Which is your favorite building alongside the square? Many people notice two buildings with angels on top. The golden angel tops the central city library. You can visit the dome, as there's a free exhibition inside more often than not. The one made of stone was the home of a famous Croatian artist Vlaho Bukovac.
A painter lived here. His former art studio with a glass rooftop is still in the courtyard.
A lot of people go for the luxurious green-colored house. The owner was a very wealthy merchant, Mr. Petrović. Talking about extravagant, there's a grey house with a gothic feel on the other side of the square. Come closer. You will be entertained by so many creatures greeting you from its facade. Mr Feller, a famous pharmacist, really knew how to attract attention. This is not his only house in Zagreb. He built one of the first houses with an elevator (in a two-story building) and the first five-story building in the town.
Pharma king’s house.
Again, it's so strange how perspectives change as time passes. If I lived in those days, I would feel unimpressed with people who showed off their wealth like that. Looking back at them from the point of the 21st century, I am grateful to every one of them for leaving their mark in the city's design and for gifting us such a gorgeous legacy.
Magnolia trees make perfect picture frames
We’re back in the 21st century that gives you a lot of reasons to visit this square as it serves as a fairytalish backdrop for many events. If you visit in the first days of spring, you might be here in time for the Festival of Light. Springtime also offers you a chance to join an army of locals who come to take photos of the two magnolia trees in bloom - the true sign that spring has arrived. In Summer, free classical music concerts take place here. Saving the best for last - with the end of the year, the square turns into a unique skate rink.
Photo by J. Duval / Zagreb Tourist Board
If you're here in December, join the city's festive vibe and enjoy the winter fun with this beautiful square as a backdrop. I am sure that even Franz Joseph would love it!
Author: Iva Silla