Spiralling through Dugave
However, if you take the title in a literal sense, it's more than true. Oh, yes, you will feel like you're going around in spirals, probably get lost, and won't know how to find your way out of the neighbourhood easily if you're not a Dugave local.
Photo description: Satellite view of Dugave. Source: Google Maps.
It took only a few years to build the special neighbourhood that would become home to around 11,000 people at the south end of the city in the early 1980s. And what a neighbourhood! It finds inspiration in the old town through buildings that feature secluded green spaces. However, the Dugave buildings, more like horseshoes than blocks, are entirely original compared to the rest of the city. The blocks are not perfectly rectangular and are often opening up towards the fields in the south, with "their backs" turned to the older parts of the city. The spaces within are true arboretums, home to a variety of green residents.
Photo description: Immense green space surrounded by buildings in Dugave.
Photo description: There’s greenery in front of the buildings, too.
The neighbourhood was also inspired by the progressive contemporary artists of the time. It respects its surroundings. Taller buildings on the north side of Dugave reflect the height of the nearby Travno neighbourhood. They gradually lower as they approach the rural regions, until they reach the level of family homes. The famous roundish shape of Dugave is inspired by the terrain, starting from the empty branch of the river Sava that runs through.
Photo description: The typical family houses of Dugave are popularly known as Beverly Hills.
Photo description: The commercial hub of Dugave was inspired by the 1899 commercial passage in downtown Zagreb. They both carry the name oktogon, for the shape of their glass ceilings.
Notice the graffiti and murals of Dugave. Some of them exhibit a special sense of neighbourhood identity, with iconic messaging such as Dugave republika (the Republic of Dugave). There's a lot of local patriotism that is evident in the significant number of murals dedicated to the famous football club Dinamo. And finally, there's art from internationally recognised street artists who visited Dugave almost 15 years ago, bringing attention to the neighbourhood and elevating its urban vibe to the status of a so-called Street Art Museum.
Photo description: ‘Paris doesn’t have what you have’ – a mural inspired by the cultural symbols of Zagreb
Photo description: This mural by Austrian and French artists Jana & JS is still holding up after almost 15 years.
Interested in experiencing Dugave for yourself? It's easier than you might think. Hop on the city bus 220, which will take you directly to the neighbourhood. The bus station is conveniently located at Trg kralja Tomislava square, where you'll find an underground passage called Importanne. At the end of this passage to the left, you'll find the station for public buses, including the 220 that will take you straight to Dugave.
Photo description: You could also visit Dugave by bike.
Photo description: This was a common feature in the Zagreb neighbourhoods of the time. Can you guess what is it for?
The four architects who designed Dugave were so confident in their creation that they chose to live there themselves. One of them, Ivan Čizmek, presented the neighbourhood during its construction in an article titled 'The present is our future'. His words have rung true, as almost 45 years later, many consider Dugave's design to be a visionary view of city development, one that modern cities could look up to.
Photo description: When you need a break from the Dugave sightseeing, reward yourself with a meal or a drink in Oktogon.
Photo credit: Iva Silla
Author: Iva Silla