Skimming through old Zagreb guides
“It is no accident that town gates on Zagreb’s medieval coat-of-arms are wide open. Traditionally, for centuries this city has had an open-door policy for craftsmen, merchants, and travellers. Now the same welcome is extended to tourists and all people interested in coming to know this part of the world better or in coming to work in this thriving business centre.”
These inspiring words come from a Zagreb guide from 1970 written by Ivan Raos. More than half-a-century later, here I am with the booklet in my hands, wondering if the city has changed at all? I don’t know about you, but I really love browsing through old guides. The nostalgic photos, and occasional poetic texts invite the reader to experience and appreciate the city. Join me in skimming through some of them.
Let’s start all the way back in 1892, the year of the first Zagreb guide:
“In the very city, we will encounter wide, clean, well maintained streets, while we won’t be able to find, even in the older parts of the town, narrow dark streets that would stand in our way of enjoying the light and the sun as we are accostumed to.
A wreath of exuberant gardens is wrapped around the upper town, while the lower town hosts charming walkways and gardens. “
Sounds inviting to me... is there anything we shouldn’t miss?
Jelačić square. Photo from a 1892 book “Zagreb i okolica”, written by A. Hudovski
“Zagreb is beautiful, kind and clean. The residents are enjoying culture and progress. Jelačić square is the heart of the city, while the main traffic route that leads to the square is Ilica, home to many inns and lovely stores. May everyone visit these spots, as that is where, in the morning, you can enjoy the buzz of the market, and picturesque folk costumes of the farmers from the surrounding areas, while in the evening, they turn into a walkway, filled with beautiful women of Zagreb.”
The last part is probably not something you would put in a contemporary guide, but since we’re chatting, why don’t we agree it is still true. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to see the farmers’ traditional costumes any more. However, the Jelačić square is just as busy as it used to be, Ilica street is still a perfect spot for widow shopping. The market moved up the stairs from the Jelačić square in 1920s. I love this excerpt of the text about Dolac the market, from a guide published by Masmedia and Zagreb Tourism Board back in 1996:
“Ever since, all these years, Dolac market is the target and the hot topic of Zagreb reporters, tourists, and, last but not least, Zagrebians; a place of doing business, and a place of leisure, fun and curiosity. Understandably so, as the market is, in it’s daily scenery, colours, scents, sights, stories and dialogues between the buyers and vendors, through its characters and destinies, much more than a price of salad, sardines, chicken or watermelons, although the latter shouldn’t be disregarded.
The market is all those things. It is the most genuine and the most impressive picture of contemporary politics, national economy and tradition.”
Dolac market. Photo from a 1970 guide published by Naprijed.
Dolac market. Photo from a 1996 guide published by Masmedia and Zagreb Tourist Board.
If you ask me, 1970 was the year of some dreamy guidebooks. An edition by Spektar includes amazing aerial photos. Even if they’re black-and-white, they paint a very colourful picture. Just look at these green descriptions:
“The crown of Zagreb as a green city - its entire northern side, a length of some twenty kilometres, lies at the foot of a large forested mountain. “ The photo of Maksimir is my favoutire, and this is how the book describes the park:
“Maksimir is the city’s largest and most frequented park., It covers almost two square kilometres (490 acres) of oak and beech forests several centuries old, interspersed with meadows, glades, brooks, five lakes, many paths and lanes, cafes.”
Park Maksimir. Photo from a 1970 guide published by Spektar Zagreb.
I could go on forever like this, finding all those delightful descriptions and pictures, being inspired by decades-old recommendations...but I have a better suggestion: step into one of Zagreb’s antique book stores and get your very own copy of an old guide book. Try to follow its footsteps and see if it still checks out.
Oh, I almost forgot to complete the quote from the beginning of this blog post:
“Finally, do not forget that Zagreb is known as an especially hospitable city - and that its gates have been wide open ever since the Middle Ages!
Welcome to Zagreb!”
Author: Iva Silla