Dark Love Verses of Zagreb
Why don’t we take a look at some of the writers who found their home in Zagreb, and decide for ourselves whether their love stories are a match to their own verses. Trigger warning: great love stories rarely end well. There might be mention of the darkest hours in the words that follow.
With you, my love, I’d choose to disappear,
to leave no trace behind me here.
Dobriša Cesarić
If you pass by the Strossmayer Square, there is a bust of a poet hidden under the trees. Suits him well, as he was a forester by profession. A closer look, and you will see the name of Dobriša Cesarić. Go on, ask a local if they know some of his verses, and they will recite some by heart. Do they know anything about him? Probably not, as he was a very private person. When asked for an interview, he would often say that he already said it all. In his poems. We do know he was married to Elza Šohay, an esteemed professor in the First Zagreb Gymnasium. We can only guess that it was a stable, loving marriage, immersed in all forms of art. Just as we can only guess what could be the reason for Dobriša to give in to alcohol soon after he married Elza. Until one day, when he came to another writer’s home in the middle of the night, begging him to take care of his manuscripts after he ended his life that night. Eventually, he didn’t do it. He returned to his wife and continued writing, slowly managing to escape his demons. But the privacy of their life together leaves us with nothing but guesses. Could a heartache be behind that sad episode?
This monumental statue is easily spotted. But, once you get to this square, search for the small hidden one of Dobriša Cesarić. He has kept his privacy even here. Photo by Marija Gašparović for Zagreb Tourist Board
Elza’s workplace hides another statue. The First Gymnasium eventually became the Mimara Museum. In front of it, if you look carefully, you might spot a statue of a man resting on a pedestal. Another writer - Eugen Kumičić. Don’t be fooled by this cosy display - the man was famous for his naturalist novels, often featuring raw descriptions of scenery that reflect the harsh plots. One of his most famous novels, Začuđeni svatovi - The Stunned Wedding Party, is full of cases of forbidden, unrequited, and even forceful love. Where on earth did he get the inspiration? We really don’t know, as his wife, Marija (Marija happens to be the name of the irresistible main female character in the aforementioned novel, too), was also a writer who loved cooking. She even published The New Zagreb Cookbook - a collection of local recipes. And we all know very well that the way to the heart is through the stomach.
To help you find Eugen’s statue, this is the view from his pedestal. Photo by Julien Duval/Zagreb Tourist Board.
In the lake, a golden star
strangely flickers, deep within;
that burning, flaming star of fire
it is your love for me within.
August Šenoa
Marija outlived her husband by decades, and so did Slava Šenoa. They both took great care of their loved ones’ legacies. Slava’s husband, August Šenoa, was an important writer and figure from the city’s past. One of the greatest Zagreb love stories was that of Dora and Pavao from his timeless novel The Goldsmith’s Treasure. Tragic romance was his common motif. If Eugen’s Wedding Party was Stunned, August’s one was Stoned. That is - turned to stone. His dreadful poem is based on local folklore about a young couple who were cursed by the mother-in-law into being turned into rocks. That’s how much she hated the idea of them marrying each other. August knew very well how it feels to lose your heart’s desire to the reaper, as the unthinkable separated him from a lady in his younger days. Everything fell in place when he met Slava. Slava and August lived happily ever after... till death did them part. This time, it was a woman’s turn to stay behind, heartbroken.
Love hurts, it hurts, just like life hurts, too,
so hard, so hard for the one who loves so true.
Antun Gustav Matoš
This is taking a dark turn, doesn’t it? Wait till you hear about another poet, Antun Gustav Matoš. Luckily for him, we don’t judge 1800s manners, and we don’t cancel culture in Croatia. If we did, he would be the first one to go, with that steamy dedication he wrote in a notebook of a 10-year-old girl! He was 16 at the time, so I guess that’s not such a big age difference. But 10! Guess that’s nothing compared to the 1300s manners, and times of Barbara Celjska - the noblewoman who spent some of her days in the castle above Zagreb and was only 8 when she was engaged to the king.
Antun Gustav Matoš - still as charming as ever. Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan/Zagreb Tourist Board.
Do poets these days have their muses as they used to? The most famous muse of Croatian literature is Julijana Ljubica Cantilly from the charming town of Samobor. Her family forbade her from marrying the poet Stanko Vraz. Something good came out of it - a collection of love poems dedicated solely to Ljubica. It is said that Ljubica couldn’t deal with her arranged marriage, and that’s why she died very young. Their star-crossed love transcended their era and comes to life each year during the unique poetry festival held by Ljubica’s grave.
The tailed star of Croatian avant-garde literature, Janko Polić Kamov, was left tormented by feelings when his muse, Katy, left him for his very best friend! He died at the age of 23, but it was enough to leave the eternal star dust behind. Speaking of stars...
Man, be careful not to walk small under the stars.
Antun Branko Šimić
Those are the powerful words of Antun Branko Šimić. For those who think his book Metamorphosis is the peak of Croatian poetry, know that it is dedicated to his love and muse, Tatjana Marinić. Imagine her pain of losing the love of her life in their 20s! Heartbroken, she held to her own power after all, dedicating her life to solving social issues.
Ask no more why I love you
ask why the grass grows, and why the sea is restless.
Vesna Parun
By now, you might think it’s the men who are the best at dipping their pen in their broken hearts. When, in fact, some of the most lyrical love poetry is written by women. Painter and poet Cata Dujšin Ribar faced the deaths of two loved ones. You can still see an altar that she kept for them in her apartment in the Upper Town, open for visits. Vesna Parun never married, but sometimes spoke of her series of doomed loves. That reflects perfectly in her longing, emotional poetry.
What are we doing here? Just a glimpse into our writers’ love musings was enough to almost spoil Valentine’s Day for all! It’s safer to wrap up this story at this point, and wish you a very happy and completely non-poetic Valentine’s Day. With a much less memorable romance than the ones of Zagreb’s wordcrafting masters!
Header image credit: Julien Duval / Zagreb Tourist Board
Author: Iva Silla