Conquering the Upper Town
No, really, why would you even think of skipping it? There is a reason: the iconic Zagreb funicular is under renovation. This means the best way to get to the old Upper Town is unavailable. In this short time since the start of an extensive refurbishment of the 135-year-old machinery, I've already met some travellers who didn’t want to go up. Please, don't follow their example. Instead, follow one of the many ways to the Upper Town. It might be discouraging when you realise they all go...well, up! But they are of different difficulty levels, so I'm sure you'll find the one that perfectly suits your physical shape. I'll start with the most manageable one.
Level 1: Ticket to Ride
You could walk the scenic Radićeva street, or even take the bus.
There's really no excuse not to go towards the Upper Town if you know there's a small, cosy bus that will spare you the short walk up, and it takes off at the central square. The bus stop is close to the big white clock at the Jelačić Square, in Radićeva Street. You could get off on the first stop by the Stone Gate, a famous entrance into the old Upper Town. Or let the bus take you straight to the heart of the old town to Markov Trg (Saint Mark's Square). The bus is run by ZET, the city's public transport company. Tickets are less than 1 EUR and can be bought from the driver or at any newsstand.
Level 2: Woods&Horses
This gentle slope is easy to conquer.
If horses can do it, so can we. Through the leafy forest, up the gentle Vrazovo Šetalište walkway that twists and turns and is longer than other trails, you will find the least steep and most nature-immersed way towards the old town. 150 years ago, they used it to reach the Upper Town on horseback. This is the simplest way to walk up, but it's not a shortcut as it detours from the main tourist routes.
Level 3: Good Old
Radićeva Street is the easiest-to-find and most common path to the Upper Town. It starts at the main square and leads straight to the Stone Gate - it will take you a couple of minutes to get there (if that's too much for you, remember you can always wait for the Level 1 bus). Another slope leading to the Upper Town is Mesnička Street, but this charming and photogenic street is less comfortable to walk due to narrow sidewalks and noisy car traffic.
Level 4: Stairfitti
Zakmardijeve Stairs are the shortest way up if you’re starting from the main city square
On each side of the hill that leads to the famous Lotrščak Tower and the cannon of Zagreb, a path leads up. Zakmardijeve Stairs are very close to the main square. They start at the end of a narrow street with the kind of art on the walls that you'll be able to appreciate only if someone explains it. That someone could be a local street art legend Krešimir Golubić who happens to run the best street art tours.
On the other side of the hill, the trickiest climb awaits. The stairs look user-friendly, but at a certain point, the path turns so steep that it's actually dangerous when slippery in winter.
Level 5: 100 Witches
Better don’t go up the Witches’ Stairs after dark
There are several you-get-what-you-see paths to the old town. You know exactly how much you have ahead when you're at the bottom. Felbingerove Stairs from the cover photo of this article are such a case. The intimidating sight of the straight stairway rising towards the old town earned them the nickname 100 štengi (100 stairs in local dialect). Just a little comforting thought: there are fewer than 100. There's something even more frightening: Kapucinske Stairs, on the other side of the hill, are popularly known as Witches' Stairs. The old legends talk about the witches gathering there at night.
Level 6: Funicular Route
Steep and winding. You’ve been warned.
The stairs alongside the funicular are probably the worst. If I tell you that the funicular has more than 50% inclination, do you really want to walk that way up?
Level 7: Easter Eggs
This is the secret entrance to Kožarske (Tanners) Stairs
These are not necessarily very steep, but their difficulty level increases as they are harder to find, which makes them quite a rewarding discovery. Search for the stairs that lead to the old town behind the Jagerhorn Hotel or the Mlinske Stube stairs in Tkalčićeva Street.
I hope this extensive (yet incomplete) list persuades you to try it and visit the Upper Town, even if the funicular is not operating. If you take your time and let yourself into the best possible mode for exploring the Upper Town – the wandering mode – you might even find some paths I haven't mentioned here. Whatever path you take, you can’t go wrong as the paths towards the Upper Town are veins that will get you as close as it gets to the heartbeat of the city.
The list of ways to reach the Upper Town goes on. Which way will you go?
Race you to the top!
Author: Iva Silla