Christmas Fairy Tale in the Old Town

Although Zagreb Advent expands every year by adding more and more locations, for me the most magical part of it all is Zagreb´s Old town or how Zagrebians say – Upper town. Personally, it has always been my favourite part of the city centre, no matter the season. But at Christmas time, when its old streets are decorated with sparkly decorations and every corner is filled with delicious food and drink, it comes to life and creates an absolutely stunning atmosphere.

Not your ''normal'' Advent

Located in the heart of  Zagreb, Tunnel Grič is maybe one of the most unusual advent locations you will ever see. Well, it certainly was to me! The Tunnel was opened to the public not so long ago, in 2016, but it existed under the city centre for many years. The tunnel connects two streets in the Old town, Mesnićka and Radićeva Street but it also has several branches going towards Ilica Street and Tomićeva Street.

For this year's Advent, two different themes are prepared. Firstly, the tunnel will become a street from the Charles Dickens books with a goal to recreate the feeling of past times. In the second part of Advent, another set up is prepared which is called ''The Wish'' and its all about children's vision of Christmas.

I can´t wait to see tunnel decorated with huge colourfully wrapped gifts, oversized sparkly decorations for Christmas trees and children's toys. Also, the main part of this amazing atmosphere are choirs that you can see while strolling through the tunnel. They sing both traditional Croatian Christmas songs like ''Tiha noć''  and ''Radujte se narodi''  and all-time classics, well known to everyone, like ''All I want for Christmas'', which really helps you get into the holiday spirit. It´s like magic. Even if you weren´t that excited when you walked into the tunnel, by the end of it, you´ll be the most festive person ever.

The views from Gradec

This is the place to come if you want a perfect ''Zagreb Advent picture''. The plateau Gradec serves as a perfect venue for all the cute little wine and food stands overlooking Zagreb´s cathedral which makes an absolutely stunning scene. There is even an Instagram frame to take a picture. There is usually a long line of people waiting to take a picture, but trust me you won´t regret waiting because you will probably get an amazing photo for all your social media.

For me, the best time to visit it is during the day, but it is breathtaking during the night when countless shiny lamps set on pine trees and covered in white fluffy snow come to life and create a fairytale feel with their sparkle. It really feels like you are transported to a magical world of Christmas.

Now, I have to be honest and say that this is definitely my favourite Advent location in town. No other can beat the beautiful view of the sparkling cathedral in the background and the atmosphere there is always amazing and full of festive spirit. There are also many concerts planned for all the days of Advent, so I love going there at the weekends to listen to some nice bands while enjoying delicious food from all the stands. I also like to go skating on ice rank which is placed in the atrium of a gallery Klovićevi dvori. That is my favourite place to go skating because the rank is not that crowded and the setting of it is stunning.

Image credit: TZGZ, Kolašević Adi

A place for romantic souls

Something that I really look forward to is that this year Strossmayer's promenade or ''Stross'' is included in Advent. That part of the Old town was always the most romantic place because of its beautiful views over the city. Many little benches are perfect for sitting down and enjoying all the shiny Christmas lights in the centre of town. So seeing it all decorated with Christmas decorations, for the first time, will be stunning for sure.

Like all the other locations, there will be many options for food and drinks, like different sausages in buns, famous ''fritule'', sugared almonds and many more, all under the name ''Caffe de Matoš'', named after famous Croatian poet whose statue is placed on Strossmayer promenade.

What I love to eat the most are ''germknedle''. Well, love is an understatment. I wait a whole year just to enjoy this Advent delicacy. It's actually an Austrian dish made of dough and sour cream and topped off with vanilla dressing and poppy seeds. You can also add Nutella to it if you want extra sweetness, which I always take. Of course, no Advent outing is completed without a cup of hot mulled wine, well usually a few of them.

Image credit: TZGZ, Lučić Tonči

Let the countdown begin!

So after everything you read, I´m sure you´re all excited to visit the Old Town in its all Advent glory! I know, I sure am. For me there is no feeling like going out with friends, drinking mulled wine and eating delicious food from stands and just enjoying good spirits that you can feel in the air. The Zagrebians take Christmas very seriously, and you can really see that by the fantastic atmosphere in town during Advent. So prepare warm clothes, good spirit and enjoy!

Image credit: TZGZ, P. Čolak

PS

If you don´t  feel like walking up all those stairs to reach the Old Town, take a funicular ride from Tomićeva Street, and in just a minute or two you´ll be in a whole other Christmas wonderland.

Header image credit: TZGZ, A. Markezić

Author: Darija Ilić