The Horseshoe
If you open a city map of our lovely capital you will spot something interesting in the town center. Without further ado, Zagreb has a horseshoe. But not the typical one used for noble animals such as horses or the one that brings luck and good fortune. Our horseshoe is even better because it brings joy to all the locals and newcomers arriving in the city.
What does that even mean? Our city has parks and squares aligned in a shape of a letter U, hence the horseshoe! This is the biggest architectural undertaking that dates back to second half of the 19th century. Let’s walk the walk and talk the talk.
If we start from the west promenade, our eyes will immediately feast on the building of Croatian National Theater. This is just a glimpse of the beauty because the horseshoe is a big open museum. The most popular architectural style of that period – Historicism has its best examples within the horseshoe.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
Every building has its own story to share because the architects sought for inspiration in many different styles and tried to incorporate them in present times with a touch of something new. The results are magnificent. Keep your eyes up and examine facades, you will not regret it. A short stroll across Mazuranic Square brings us to Marulic Square. This square is dominated by the Secessionist building of the States Archive. Observe closely and you will notice owls on the top of the building that are monitoring your every move! Some claim that there are hidden tunnels connecting this building with the theatre building. If you are enthusiastic and brave enough, try to discover them.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
Conveniently, half way through the horseshoe, there is an ideal resting place, the Botanical garden of Zagreb. It has more than 10 000 plant species, so get lost in the harmonic environment the garden offers. Continuing our path, King Tomislav Square presents itself at the beginning of the west promenade. This is an excellent part to embrace both the old and the new. While looking at our first king on a horse, you can dwell upon the history of the nation because Tomislav ruled these territories in the 10th century. Although we do not have a lot of historical data about his life he is extremely important today as he is on our 1000 Kuna banknote.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
If you turn around, you will see what all the fuss is about. People are speeding in different directions, disembarking trains on the Main Train Station or getting off or on one of the trams. My favorite building in this square would be the Art pavilion. Our first formal exhibition place was originally built in Budapest for the Millennium exhibition. Afterwards, they took the whole iron construction of the building and placed it here where it is today.
Our next square houses the Croatian Academy of Science and Arts and a monumental statue of J.J.Strossmayer, a bishop from the 19th century and one of the biggest benefactors to the city of all time. He was so influential that we named the most beautiful promenade of the Upper town after him.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
They say that cherry comes on top, so we conclude our tour with park Zrinjevac. It holds a title as the most beautiful park of the horseshoe. While standing in the center of the park next to the Music pavilion and being surrounded with more than 100-year-old plane trees, you will understand why. The Music pavilion is a place of gathering so it frequently holds free concerts for all the people that gather. A newly acquired dynamic of the locals during warm days is lying on the grass and observing life as it passes by. The easygoing style is in our bloodstream, as you will soon discover.
If you are looking at your watch, you will realize that in less than 45 minutes we have conquered the horseshoe. Even so, be aware that there is more to it than it meets the eye. It is not just squares, buildings, and parks. Its main significance isn't the architecture either. The thing that gives added value and makes it unique and enchanting are the people. Every time I walk there I focus on the people.
In the morning, you will see senior citizens enjoying the nature and talking about their daily routines. There will be joggers, people with dogs and children running around chasing the pigeons. In the evening, it is packed with younger generations all dressed up and ready for a night out. You can feel the switch between tranquil mornings and vibrant afternoons and evenings. All generations soak up the atmosphere of these enjoyable surroundings.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
I also appreciate and love wooden benches that cherish the stories of people that occupy them. They gladly welcome everybody, from children to friends and couples, or solo travelers just enjoying a cup of coffee. In addition, the green horseshoe is a place where we opened to the world. First professionally organized hotel in the city at the start of the 20th century was Hotel Palace on Strossmayer Square, the hotel that still welcomes tourists from around the world.
Hotel Esplanade, as the most luxurious hotel in the city, is also around the corner next to the Main Train Station. Both hotels operate in attractive places so you can see all of the beauty they offer. The horseshoe is my oasis of peace. I use it to balance my thoughts and get lost from sometimes hectic scenarios of the urban city. I advise you to do the same.
Till our next walk, #loveZagreb
Header image credit: Marko Vrdoljak, Zagreb Tourist Board
Author: Filip Donadić