Theaters in Zagreb: A Century of Artistic Excellence
While this blog highlights a selection of prominent venues in Zagreb like the Croatian National Theatre, City Drama Theatre Gavella, City Theatre Komedija, and others, it’s important to note that there are many more theaters contributing to the cultural tapestry of the city. From grand operas to intimate dramas and innovative performances, Zagreb's theaters are alive with creativity and passion, ensuring that audiences can always find captivating shows to enjoy.
The Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb
Photo: M. Vrdoljak; TZGZ
The Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb is the oldest theatre in Croatia and undoubtedly, one of the most significant. It officially opened on November 24, 1860, while the Croatian Parliament legally established it in 1861 by providing financial and administrative support. But its roots go back to 1840, when actors from Novi Sad (Republic of Serbia) performed the historical drama "Juran and Sofija" in Zagreb. This proved that Zagreb had the talent and audience for a national theatre.
In 1860, protests interrupted a German troupe’s performance, and from that moment, only Croatian-language plays were performed. Ivan Zajc, who arrived in 1870, established the Opera, and ballet followed in 1876. By the 1920s and 1930s, the theatre reached new heights, premiering works by Miroslav Krleža and staging notable operas like "Ero s onoga svijeta" by Jakov Gotovac.
Even after World War II, HNK (Hrvatsko Narodno Kazalište) maintained its artistic standard, exploring international playwrights. Furthermore, the major renovation of the theatre took place from 1967-1969, but the company stayed strong, continuing to perform.
Today, they carry on that legacy into the 21st century, balancing the classics with new works, keeping the spirit of Croatian theatre alive.
Current Plays and Events
Currently, various plays and events are scheduled throughout the season in the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb. Furthermore, feel free to choose between genres to fully immerse yourself into the performances. You might still catch some tickets before they sell out.
- Ballet
For ballet lovers, there are multiple dates for the play ''Hamlet'', Shakespeare's most famous and performed work, has intrigued and inspired artists worldwide for over four centuries. The story of a son who struggles to come to terms with his father's sudden death, and the revelation of his father's murderer by the father's ghost, continues to captivate audiences of all generations.
You might also come and see the ''Ballet Gala Concerts'', two ballet gala performances featuring renowned ballet stars from around the world. A ballet gala is always a special treat for ballet lovers, as it showcases the most beautiful excerpts from the classical repertoire.
Furthermore, ''Žar-ptica'' (Firebird) and Petruška are also live - The Firebird is a magical creature that brings both fortune and misfortune to anyone who captures it. The ballet's storyline follows the journey of the main character, Prince Ivan, who enters the enchanted garden of Koschei the Immortal, where he encounters the Firebird. Petruška is also one of the important ballet works in the context of ballet history because, through this piece, choreographer Mikhail Fokine implemented his reform of ballet art, changing some of the rules and conventions that had been established in classical ballet until then.
- Opera
If you are an opera lover, we have stunning treats for you too!
For example, ''Judita'' - the biblical story of Judith, the widow of Bethulia who kills the enemy Holofernes to free her people, became the foundation of medieval Croatian literature through the verses of Marko Marulić, a 16th-century Dalmatian poet. Written in Croatian, in the style of Glagolitic poets, this narrative is one of the few texts Marulić composed in his native language.
The opera ''Ero s onoga svijeta'' (en. Ero the Joker) is Jakov Gotovac's most successful and popular work, and has long been considered one of the finest Slavic comic operas. Since its premiere at the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb in 1935, it has remained a staple of the repertoire in all Croatian national theatres. Numerous reviews of performances on international stages regard Ero as a symbol of Croatian opera, bringing the songs and dances of its homeland to the world, with its perfect blend of drama and music.
Furthermore, ''Lastavica'' (it. La rondine (en. The Swallow)), premiered in Monte Carlo in 1927 and remains one of Puccini's lesser-known works from his mature period. Puccini completed the score, based on a libretto by Giuseppe Adami, in 1916 after two years of work, and it premiered at the Salle Garnier in Monte Carlo on March 27, 1917.
''Gita and the Hidden World'' is a new title aimed at babies from 18 months old, but also for slightly older children up to five years of age. It tells the story of a little girl named Gita who lives on a special island. She plays, laughs, and enjoys herself, but sometimes she feels things she can’t quite describe, let alone understand what they are or what they mean.
- Drama
''Genijalna prijateljica'' (en. My Brilliant Friend) is an excellent novel by the renowned contemporary Italian author Elena Ferrante, it tells the story of two friends, Elena and Lila, in a poor neighborhood in Naples during the 1950s. The novel captivated both readers and critics from its first edition. One of the friends is gentle and seeks recognition, while the other is fierce and uncompromising, a true fighter for her own dignity.
Alongside all of these beautiful plays, there is plenty of additional events to experience, my favorite being ''LADO: Ensemble of folk dances and songs of Croatia'' - in the year in which LADO celebrates its 75th anniversary, the festive concert is dedicated to all current and former artists of the Ensemble, who represented Croatian traditional culture in Croatia and the world with their love and enthusiasm.
So, feel free to have a look at the repertoire and find something you like.
The City Drama Theatre Gavella
Photo: Wikipedia; Gavella Drama Theatre
Speaking of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb, it is inevitable to mention the Gavella Theatre. And the beginning of it is rather interesting. On May 29, 1953, a group of young actors and directors, "rebels" from the Croatian National Theatre, led by Dr. Branko Gavella, took over the building of the Little Theatre at Frankopanska 10 and founded the Zagreb Drama Theatre.
The first performance was held in Subotica, and the theatre officially opened its doors on October 30, 1954, with Krleža's Golgota, directed by Gavella. Over the years, it grew into one of Croatia's most prominent theatres, and in 1970, it was renamed Gavella Drama Theatre, producing many iconic plays with renowned directors.
Current Plays and Events
Currently, the theatre is showcasing a diverse lineup of captivating plays that cater to all tastes. From timeless classics to contemporary masterpieces, all you need to do is pick a favorite or more.
Krleža's "Kraljevo" holds a special place in the history of theatre in Frankopanska. The production premiered in 1970 and was performed 173 times by 1982, touring various stages and featuring a plethora of renowned actors. Critics say this play in particular is exactly for those who are truly in love with theatre.
The play "Mother" by French novelist, playwright, screenwriter, and theatre and film director Florian Zeller is part of a trilogy that also includes the equally acclaimed works "Father" and "Son." Zeller's dramas have been performed in about 50 countries, with some recognized as peaks of new dramatic literature in the 21st century. "Mother" is also exceptional acting material, a poignant character study crafted within an inventive dramatic framework where the experienced and imagined, the (un)realized and the fanciful intertwine.
''Moderni oblici patnje'' (en. Modern Forms of Suffering) depicts an unhealthy symbiosis between the once-famous, now-forgotten host Irma Valić and her passive, resigned son Ognjen, an unfulfilled 30-year-old intellectual, transforms into intimate nightmarish scenarios and repressed fantasies in the constant company of the surreal, fatal young TV star Silvija. This dynamic reflects their desire (or lack thereof) to escape the imposed confines of isolation and the post-pandemic world.
Furthermore, drawing on contemporary essayistic texts, feminist readings, and dramatic observations, "Medea" confronts us with the "mad and unforgivable" act of its titular heroine. Euripides' poetic virtuosity transforms her into a layered character, a rebel fighting against the unequal rights assigned to genders; through her, the author addresses the position of women in ancient Greek society, with many of those issues and questions still reflecting in today's world.
Again, the full list of current events is available on their website. I am sure you will be able to pick at least two favorites.
The Zagreb City Theatre Komedija
Photo: Wikipedia; Zagrebačko gradsko kazalište Komedija
The Zagreb City Theatre "Komedija" was established on November 1, 1950, as the legal successor to the Zagreb Drama Theatre and the Vedri Kerempuh Theatre. Its primary focus is on musical performances (operettas and comic operas since 1950; musicals since 1960; rock and pop operas since 1975), as well as dramatic performances of classical and contemporary comedies, both international and local.
The theatre also engages in publishing. Its artistic ensemble includes actors, singer-actors, vocalists, choir, ballet, and orchestra, with over 150 employees, including technical staff and workshops.
The first performance was staged on November 29, 1950, and since then, about 13,000 performances have been held, covering more than 300 titles. Some of the theatre’s most famous productions include musicals like Jalta, Jalta, Fiddler on the Roof; operettas like The Land of Smiles and The Bat; comedies such as Wake Up, Kata and Klupko; and rock operas like Gubec Beg and The Witch of Grič.
The theatre and its projects have received numerous prestigious awards and recognitions. A key testament to "Komedija's" success is its loyal audience, many of whom have been attending for generations, either individually or through organized and subscription-based visits, both at the main venue and during tours.
Current Plays and Events
Make sure you check out all the current plays at the Komedija Theatre. Below, you can find a few of my personal favorites:
"Beauty and the Beast" is the famous love story about young Belle, a girl from a provincial town, and the Beast – the ruler of a nearby castle, a prince transformed by a spell, who must learn to love and be loved if he wishes to regain his human form before it’s too late.
"Jalta, Jalta" is for all the history fans out there.The story takes place in Yalta in February 1945, during the famous conference of Stalin, Churchill, and Roosevelt. Accompanying them are three valets. Like their leaders, the valets don't trust one another and are "dividing the world" among themselves, particularly due to a mysterious part of Antarctica, which the leaders haven't noticed.
"Jesus Christ Superstar" tells the story of the last seven days of the life of Jesus of Nazareth, with a particular focus on how ordinary people react to him and the events surrounding him. The two main representatives of these reactions are Judas and Mary Magdalene. The crowd that surrounds Jesus celebrates him, asks him to heal them or lead them; but when they see him arrested and beaten, they turn against him, mock him, and demand his crucifixion.
Satirical Theatre Kerempuh
Photo: Wikipedia; Satirical Theatre Kerempuh
The opening of Jazavac (en. Badger) in 1964 marked a significant moment in Croatian theater. Initially a satirical cabaret, Jazavac became Croatia’s only socially relevant satirical theater, despite skepticism about the genre. Its roots trace back to the interwar period with cabaret venues like Pick-cabaret and Kabaret Grabancijaš, featuring actors like Tito Strozzi.
"Kerempuh's Cheerful Theater" emerged, showcasing short plays and political satire. Its popularity led to its evolution into the Komedija Theater, which continues to focus on musicals and comedies today. Jazavac’s Opening Jazavac opened on March 25, 1964, in Bled Café, founded by Fadil Hadžić, who humorously noted the minimal resources available, inspiring the theater's name. He said: "In a weak moment of Ideology, or just to get rid of me, I got a "visa" for the new satirical theater and minimal funds, a handful of corn, so that's how the theater got its name - Badger." For seven seasons, it operated as an independent theater, relying on café owners’ goodwill.
Furthermore, Jazavac faced financial difficulties and restrictions from the Drama Academy but thrived after moving to Varieté Theater in Ilica, expanding its repertoire. In 1976, Hadžić initiated the Satire Days Festival. The political cabaret "Exit from the Situation" (1989) marked a significant moment amid Croatia's political changes.
Jazavac was renamed Kerempuh in 1994 under political pressure, yet it maintained its identity, producing works by authors like Ivo Brešan. Kerempuh now performs over 300 shows annually to over 100,000 viewers, continuing its tradition of satire and social commentary while nurturing emerging talent.
Current Plays and Events
If you want to experience Croatian satire and social commentary, I highly recommend visiting one of the currently playing shows at the Kerempuh theatre.
The dramatic text "I Haven't Stopped Since Morning" talks about gender issues, but with an important content twist - stereotyped male and female gender roles are reversed in a humorous, absurd and unconventional way, while established clichés about the dynamics of male-female relationships are subject to a satirical edge.
"Murder on the Orient Express" is a cult novel by the most famous author of detective novels, Agatha Christie. It follows the story of the famous Belgian detective Poirot must solve a murder that takes place on a train somewhere between Vinkovci and Slavonski Brod. Trapped in the snow, surrounded by an unusual range of characters, all of whom have decided to travel today, Poirot must discover the game and solve a case that only seems simple on the surface.
Moreover, in the play ''Socrates is not Afraid of Being Ridiculed'', two Socrates appear - the one we know as an incomparable philosophical figure and Socrates, a character from Aristophanes' ˝The Clouds˝. The scenes of two opposite genres alternate, the drama of a tragic thinker condemned to death because of his own free-thinking and a comedy that makes fun of philosophical relativization.
Trešnja Municipal Theatre
Photo: Wikipedia; Kazalište Trešnja
The Trešnja Municipal Theatre has come a long way from its amateur beginnings to becoming one of the most recognized professional children's theaters in Croatia. Its roots are connected to the society Naša djeca (a non-profit children-focused organisation), which staged its first play, Little Red Riding Hood, on May 8, 1954. Shortly after its success, the drama group evolved into the Pioneers Amateur Theater, located in the Maksim Gorki Cultural Center.
The theater quickly gained success, and in 1958, the play Timpetili, the City Without Parents was awarded as the best at the First Children’s Festival in Šibenik. The first full-length children’s ballet, Pinocchio laid the groundwork for future dance and music groups. Over the next ten years, the Pioneers Amateur Theater grew and, in the 1969/70 season, became the Malo kazalište Trešnjevka (Little Trešnjevka Theater), premiering the grotesque Doctor Jojboli Among Animals.
As the time went by, innovative theatrical techniques were being implemented. As the theater developed, the need for a larger space increased, leading to the establishment of a permanent acting ensemble in 1978. With the arrival of a new director in 1985, the project for a new theater building began, which was completed in 1999.
The Trešnja Municipal Theatre continues to nurture generations of children, with great history of directors contributing to its development. Today we see a new energy and youthful spirit to the theater. Trešnja remains an essential cultural venue in Zagreb, marked by the joy of creation and the children’s laughter echoing from its building adorned with recognizable colorful mosaics.
Current Plays and Events
Here is a small selection of performances that you can watch this season at the Trešnja Theatre, among others.
''Čudnovate zgode šegrta Hlapića'' (en. The Curious Adventures of Apprentice Hlapić) is one of the most famous kid's shows in Croatia. The apprentice Hlapić sets off into the world to break in a pair of boots that were too tight for a customer. In a farewell letter, he promises to help others. Indeed, on his journey, Hlapić meets various people and approaches everyone with kindness, always trying to help. He helps the boy Marko find his lost geese, assists a milkman with delivering milk, helps farmers put out a fire and much much more.
''Charlie and the Chocolate Factory'' is definitelly an all-time-favorite classic. Willy Wonka opens the doors of his marvelous factory for the first time and announces a contest. He places five golden tickets in his factory's products, his chocolates, which serve as a guarantee for entry into the mysterious and unknown (at least from the inside) chocolate factory. Around the world, children and parents frantically buy chocolates, hoping they (and their child) will be the ones to find a golden ticket.
''Crvenkapica'' (Little Red Riding Hood) is yet another popular title ad now you have the chance to experience it in the Croatian way. Although we already know almost everything about this fairy tale, Trešnja's performance manages to uncover some unknown details, reveal the background of the story, and bring its characters to life, all seen through the eyes of two sisters who, just like the audience, enter the incredible world of the fairy tale by reading Little Red Riding Hood's diary.
Conclusion
The Croatian National Theatre, City Drama Theatre Gavella, Zagreb City Theatre Komedija, Satirical Theatre Kerempuh, and Trešnja Municipal Theatre represent just a snapshot of Zagreb's vibrant theatrical landscape. They truly remind me of my childhood and I will cherish these memories forever.
While this blog highlights just a tiny selection of current plays, there are many more theatres and plays in the city showcasing a diverse array of performances. I encourage you to explore everything Zagreb's cultural scene has to offer. I believe that language sometimes plays absolutely no role in your enjoyment of plays.
So, grab your best friend, partner, or kids, and dive in the magic of theatre!
Author: Valentin Preložiček