Pumpkin, Chestnuts & Štrukli: Must-Try Autumn Foods in Zagreb

Pumpkins From Market Baskets to Festival Tables

Pumpkin (buča) is everywhere in Zagreb’s autumn markets. Locals transform it into creamy soups, roasted side dishes, and bučnica, a savory or sweet pastry filled with grated pumpkin wrapped in delicate layers of dough. It’s a versatile ingredient that embodies the warmth and comfort of the season, showcasing the ingenuity of authentic Croatian cuisine.

If you venture just outside the city, Ivanić-Grad hosts the Pumpkin Festival, a lively celebration where pumpkin appears in every form imaginable: pies, jams, oils, and even beer. The festival is a must-visit for foodies because it offers a deep dive into the many ways pumpkin can be prepared. Don’t miss pumpkin seed oil (bučino ulje), the rich green treasure of the region, drizzled over salads or fresh bread accompanied by homemade cheese. Its nutty flavor is a local favorite and an essential part of the autumnal culinary landscape.

Chestnuts: Street Food with Tradition

Few Zagreb traditions are as nostalgic as warming your hands with a paper cone of roasted chestnuts (kesteni). Vendors set up on Ban Jelačić Square and along Ilica Street, filling the air with their sweet and smoky aroma that signals the arrival of cooler seasons. This simple, comforting street food is a timeless ritual that brings together locals and visitors alike.

For dessert, step into one of the city’s patisseries and order chestnut purée with whipped cream (kesten pire). This velvety, nutty treat has been a Zagreb favorite for generations, offering a rich and satisfying end to any meal. It’s a perfect example of how classic ingredients are elevated into truly special desserts.

Štrukli: The True Layers of Comfort

The ultimate must-try is štrukli, a dough-and-cheese dish baked until golden for a flaky texture or boiled for a tender, comforting version. This dish is quite similar to bučnica but without the pumpkin, and its layers of pastry and savory cheese filling create a truly unique and delicious experience. It absolutely is one of our favorites as well.

You can find excellent štrukli at La Štruk in the Upper Town, or enjoy it in traditional taverns across the city. In autumn, some chefs add seasonal twists like pumpkin, apple, or truffle, giving this classic dish a delicious seasonal makeover. If you happen to fancy a quicker snack, many bakeries scattered across Zagreb will definitely have a variety or two of delicious štrukli, making it easy to enjoy this traditional treat on the go.

But of Course, There are Also

Earthy Mushroom Flavors of Medvednica

Mushroom lovers, this is for you. Porcini, chanterelles, and black trumpets make their way from the forests of Medvednica and the surrounding Zagreb area onto local menus. Look out for Zagorje mushroom soup, risottos, and spreads that showcase these earthy flavors, harvested with care and skill. These dishes bring a taste of the outdoors to the city’s dining scene.

Signature Strudels, Rolls, and Hearty Sweets

Furthermore, markets brim with apples, pears, plums, and quinces, often baked into strudels, dumplings, and compotes. These fruit-filled desserts are a staple of the autumn season. Traditional pastries like walnut roll (orehnjača) and poppy seed roll (makovnjača) add a rich, nutty sweetness to Zagreb’s dessert offerings. This for sure showcases the city’s long-standing baking traditions.

Toasting the Young Harvest for Every Wine Lover

Autumn is harvest season in nearby vineyards, with St. Martin’s Day (Martinje) in November marking the “baptism” of young wine. In Zagreb and its surroundings, you can join lively celebrations, tasting Plešivica Portugizac and other new wines paired with hearty seasonal dishes. It's a festive occasion that celebrates the fruits of the harvest and the start of a new wine year.

An Invitation to Taste Zagreb’s Autumn

Pumpkin, chestnuts, and štrukli are the stars of Zagreb’s autumn table, but the season offers much, much more: from earthy forest mushrooms to celebratory young wines and irresistible fruit-filled desserts. It's a time of rich flavors and comforting traditions.

This autumn, stroll through Dolac Market, warm your hands with roasted chestnuts, and savor štrukli in a cozy tavern. Zagreb invites you to experience fall through its flavors: hearty, welcoming, and absolutely unforgettable. What a delicious way to enjoy the season, don't you think?

Author: Valentin Prelozicek