Ilica Then and Now: From Craftsmen to Modern Brands

It begins from Ban Jelačić Square in the east, through Črnomerec in the west of the city, all the way to Vrapče. It has more than 500 addresses. For years and centuries, Ilica was the primary place for shopping, walking, and drinking coffee with your long-lasting friend. It was just a must-visited place if you wanted to be seen. And in Zagreb, well you just want everybody to see your new outfit. So, why is Ilica so popular you ask? Keep reading because you are in for a treat. 

From Potter's Village to Ilica street

Ilica was always known as the most urbanic place in Zagreb - even in the 18th century. But the name Ilica was not the first name for this street. Former residents were city serfs whose primary job was to create ceramics products so the street got the name Lončarska Ves (Potter's Village) in the 14th century. Interestingly, the only saved house from that time was Jagerhorn (Lovački rog), a hotel opened in 1827. Today it's still in the same place with the same name and purpose. But Ilica became most popular after the Zagrebian earthquake in 1880. After that year, Ilica was the primary place for shops, restaurants, and hotels. Image all the crowd just like today - nothing changed except back then there was no asphalt pavement until 1889. What was the golden era of Ilica street you ask? Everybody has their own opinion. Some say it's the 19th century, some say 1935 or 80s, but the sad reality is that a lot of little shops are closing their doors these days. So what happened? 

The golden era of crafts on Ilica street

The year is 1879 and the population in Zagreb is more than 28.000 with 1.250 craftsmen in 80 activities. In the next year, the number of craftsmen grew and the city became the cultural center and a major consumer - suitable for the development of all known activities and crafts. Crafts like tailoring, retail shops, umbrella making and licitar-making were one of the popular ones. There was even a newspaper called "Obrtnik" that was first published on April 1, 1884. It was a golden era for craftsmen, so to show off their work they organized a lot of fairs and exhibitions. Can you imagine walking down Ilica street during the fair? Well actually you can even witness it today during the street fair of Project Ilica: Q'ART. On that day, Ilica is closed for traffic and all the interested craftsmen can show off their work to the public. No trains, no cars, just people who support crafts and enjoy each other company. But Project Ilica is so much more than that. They're making sure there are fewer abandoned spaces that can be transformed into potential stores for craftsmen. 

Fotografije Zagreba

Crafts were the symbol of Zagreb. As we go further in history, from generation to generation, crafts were passed down to younger ones - children or any other family member. It was a family tradition and even today some of them are still standing with their shops on Ilica street. Not in big numbers like back in the day, but it's nice to see them. Most old ones are Kišobrani Cerovečki, Cipele Valek and Atelier Marković. 

Forgotten crafts among famous stores 

Today, among surviving crafts, Ilica is full of big famous names like Zara, Office Shoes, McDonald's, M.A.C, Tezenis, and much more. From fashion and jewelry stores to cafes, pharmacies, banks, and museums - there is something for everybody. So how can small family shops survive against big stores like Zara and Mango? Well, they are struggling but most of them have loyal customers who support their business. They don't care about the price but the quality of materials and finished products that will last them years and years. Some of those products are even passed down to the next generation - something that fast fashion brands can't compete with. Wearing the same dress your grandma wore in her teen years or owning a watch your grandpa had almost all his life is something the next generation will never experience. 

Fotografije Zagreba

If you're walking through Ilica from beginning to end you will find a lot of interesting things, but if you look closely - there will be a small shop that's probably been there for years, maybe even 100 years. Little advice, pay attention to numbers from 50 to 150. In that area, you will find most retro shops, patisseries, barbershops, and more. They are fighting modern trends and promoting local values, traditions, and timeless quality. Get a haircut in a vintage chair, buy new shoes, or taste traditional cakes in a retro patisserie. The Ilica is your oyster! 

So next time when you find yourself wandering through Ilica, visit them, talk to workers, and maybe, just maybe you will find out more about Zagreb than you thought and get the coolest souvenir for your family and friends.