Expats in Zagreb: An Opportunity to Explore Family Roots
Tell us a little bit about yourself. Where are you from and why did you move to Zagreb?
I’m a 28-year-old guy from New Zealand who lives in Melbourne, Australia. I came to Zagreb because an opportunity presented itself through the State Office for Croats Abroad to study Croatian. I’ve always wanted to learn the language and immerse myself in life here, so it was too good a thing to pass up!
Image credit: Petar Grgec
How hard was it to move and get used to living in a different country on the completely opposite side of the world?
It’s always hard leaving a place where you’re settled, but I felt this was a brilliant opportunity to do something that has always been a dream. At first, it didn’t seem too difficult but once the initial holiday period wore off you need to adjust to the realities of a new life in a new place. A small challenge that stood out to me was trying to find a café that served food (brunch is huge in Melbourne). Of course, there was difficulty in adjusting to life here without having friends and family and a lot of solo time. Thankfully, I met some great people who helped me settle in while living here.
Your dad's side of the family is from Croatia - did that make your move easier?
My dad’s side of the family live in a small village in Međimurje so it didn’t help so much with the move but knowing I could visit them was a great comfort. When I first arrived, I visited them with my dad, and then spent Christmas holidays with them which was an amazing experience, completely different from the usual summer Christmas in New Zealand!
Image credit: Petar Grgec
Was it a nice experience to explore the country of your roots?
Of course! I had spent time on the coast on previous trips to Croatia, but this time I wanted to explore the continental side of Croatia. I volunteered in some small villages outside of Karlovac and Koprivnica helping with odd jobs and immersing myself in the real world of Croatia.
I wanted to get out of the tourist bubble. Hearing and experiencing how people live here, their thoughts on life and about what is happening in Croatia was very eye-opening. It helped me understand how life is here away from the tourist centers of the coast.
What are the biggest differences between your home country and Croatia - culture, people, weather etc.?
Wow, that’s a big question. I feel people in Croatia are very open and extremely friendly, once they know who you are. When welcomed into a house you automatically feel like part of their family. Croatians can be quite blunt and are ready to speak their mind on anything that’s close to their hearts. We tend to be a little more cautious. In New Zealand and Australia there are certain subjects that you tend to avoid (money, religion, emotions) but here opening up about these things were common. I think this is healthy, as it’s necessary to be able to get such thoughts and feelings off your chest and discuss problems with others.
What was your favorite thing about living in Zagreb and what you maybe didn't like about it?
I fell in love with the coffee culture and relaxed atmosphere of Zagreb. It’s great to be able to sit with friends over coffee (or beer) and just chat away about life. I also liked how easy it was to get around the city and how safe Zagreb is. The tram network made exploring new areas really easy and you could always get where you wanted. I was also surprised at how safe Zagreb is. I never once felt like I was in any trouble walking the streets late at night. Speaking with other expats (and locals) about this, they all feel the same.
Image credit: Petar Grgec
Did you maybe have some favorite places to go in the city?
I did have some favorite spots to go. A Croatian friend took me to a cool coffee spot called Quahwa which quickly became my local go to for great coffee. Often, I would go to Teacher’s Pub for beers with friends and watch the football, or to Čeh Pub which was close to my apartment. Burgeraj was my favorite burger joint in Zagreb and I highly recommend going there for a burger if you haven’t been!
Did you speak any Croatian before you came here? If not, did you learn anything while living here?
I spoke a little, but nothing more than basic greetings and to ask where the toilet was. I studied at Croaticum for a semester which really helped me build a solid foundation. It is not an easy language to learn from scratch. It was awesome to be able to visit family and speak some Croatian with them. I’m hoping to continue learning once I get back to Melbourne. For any non-native Croatian speaker staying in Croatia for a while, I highly recommend the course offered at Croaticum.
What are the things that you missed the most about your home during your time in Zagreb? Except for your family and friends of course.
The thing that I missed the most was the wide variety of food available back in Melbourne. As much as I enjoy Croatian cuisine and bakery food, there were many days when I wanted to have a Thai, Vietnamese or English dish which I couldn’t find. At the weekends, I love to eat brunch, which is not really something they do here. I will say that since my last visit to Zagreb there are a lot more food options available and I’m sure by next time I visit there will be even more!
Did you make any new friendships in Zagreb? What would you say about locals - are there some main characteristics about Croatians - Zagrebians you can point out?
Yeah, I made a few good Croatian friends while here, and even recorded music with a group called ‘Moon Unit’. The Croatian friends I made here had all moved to Zagreb from other parts of Croatia. Everyone was always willing to lend a hand when I needed help sorting something out or if I just wanted advice. Like I said before, I found Croatian people really friendly, and it’s always a good time to be able to sit around and chat over coffee or a few beers.
Image credit: Petar Grgec
Are you sad to be leaving Zagreb and Croatia?
Of course, it’s been a really good 6 months here and I’ve grown fond of Zagreb. I know I’ll be back in the near future to visit friends and explore more of the country. Who knows, I may even stay longer next time - as I will apply for my Croatian citizenship.
What will you miss the most about life in Zagreb?
I’ll miss the coffee culture and the relaxing vibe of life in Zagreb. It will be hard to adjust to the fast-paced lifestyle of Melbourne after being here. But hopefully, I can bring the good parts of Zagreb back with me to keep life a bit more relaxed.
Would you ever consider living here for a longer period or even move here forever?
It’s something I would consider. As I said, I am applying for my Croatian citizenship - so that will open up the possibility of a longer stay. If there was some kind of work opportunity, I would definitely consider it.
Header image credit: J. Duval, TZGZ
Author: Darija Ilić