Escape the Heat: Finding Zagreb’s Coolest Microclimates
The first thing you should know about Zagreb is that it’s easy to fall in love with. You may think I’m biased just because I’m Zagreb-born and raised, but the variety of places to visit here ranks among the highest in the world. Not many capital cities have mountains, lakes, forests and gardens, all close, pedestrian-friendly and easily reachable by foot or public transport. Here are my favorite spots.
SLJEME
Photo: Julien Duval
Although Sljeme is actually the peak of Medvednica mountain, we call the whole mountain Sljeme. I’m not sure why. But I’m sure it’s located in the north of the city. You can actually use it as a reference point so you never get lost.
Sljeme cools the whole city with its forests, bringing fresh air and blocking bad weather. Standing at 1035 meters with its many trails and routes, it’s perfect for a weekend hike or an easy walk. Not too steep, not too difficult, but yet it can present a challenge, depending on how ambitious you are.
There are several places to rest and enjoy the view and the food, like Grafičar, Runolist, Puntijarka, Grofica… There are 13 to choose from and they’re all really good. Halfway up, there’s a graceful medieval site, the Medvedgrad fortress,
If you’re like my friends and you’re not into walking, you can take the funicular. And once you’re ready to go, the tram stop is right at the foot of the mountain.
MAKSIMIR
Photo: Julien Duval
A park perhaps too big for a regular city, with lakes, forests, and a zoo, Maksimir was designed as a place to relax beyond Zagreb’s edge. As the city grew, it became its part and one its symbols.
Maksimir is perfect for a nice walk. Unlike Sljeme, Maksimir is flat, with the exception of a small hill where you can sit and enjoy the view from the charming Vidikovac café (literally ‘Viewpoint’).
It’s one of the most popular places in Zagreb, and because of the proximity to the city center and the populous eastern part of the city, it can get crowded, especially on weekends. But, because of the size, visitors spread out evenly and you can always find a nice spot for yourself. Don’t worry, it’s not that busy during weekdays.
My favorite part there are the lakes, but your kids (or your inner child) will love the zoo. They’ve just recently welcomed its newest resident: a baby hippo!
JARUN
Photo: Julien Duval
Jarun is an artificial lake that was built for the 1987 Universiade, which is something like the Olympic games for students. It was quite a serious endeavor back then, a huge project with amazing infrastructure that every citizen of Zagreb uses to this day.
Most notably, Jarun is referred to as ‘Zagreb’s sea’. The shores of the lake serve as a giant beach and many people go there to swim and cool off. It’s the number one place in Zagreb for outdoor sports, whether it’s cycling, rowing, basketball, volleyball, table tennis, fishing… You name it.
It’s also an amazing place to walk (and talk). Thousands of people go there daily for a stroll or to get some exercise. You can’t go there by car, making it a true sports outdoor complex. No need for air conditioning here, the trees do the job.
It’s also a place that doesn’t go quiet after dark. Numerous bars and clubs attract those who favour a different kind of leisure. If you ask me, balance is the key. You should experience both sides, and yes, consider this an invitation!
BOTANICAL GARDEN
Photo: Julien Duval
A venue that perks up the city center is the Botanical garden. It was the main spot to chill, way before Maksimir or Netflix.
The rich flora brings serenity just next to the never-ending urban rush. In my experience, every botanical garden has a unique layout, content, and feel. For example, when I was in Porto, I remember there were many tall trees. In Zagreb, trees are not as tall, but the garden is a bit neater overall.
It’s an important site for our University and practical lessons for students. I’d say it perfectly reflects the aspirations Zagreb had (late 1800s) regarding size and the public. The Austro-Hungarian vibe is perfectly in line with the urbanistic planning of the times.
If you just sit on a bench there, you can get lost in thought for hours on end, with no mass of people around to make you lose focus. I bet it’s what the aristocracy back then felt like.
On a personal note, my favorite is the pond. I was and still am a big fan of the turtles there. I used to watch them play among the fish and frogs and marvel at how mischievous they actually are.
BUNDEK
Photo: Julien Duval
If you think one giant artificial lake is enough, you are mistaken. The second one is called Bundek.
Up until the 2000s, Bundek was a swampy, marshy waste of land, right on the brink of the Sava river. Unlike many European cities, Zagreb doesn’t trace its origins next to a river. It seems odd, but apparently there was plenty of water from Medvednica mountain, so the city was built on the hills instead.
Bundek quickly became a go-to place for many inhabitants of Zagreb, especially ‘New Zagreb’, the part of town across the Sava river. Fun fact: its position would make Bundek the last lake in the Balkans, which would make Jarun the first lake in Central Europe.
Geographical controversies aside, Bundek is perfect for an easy stroll during the day and night. You can catch locals firing up the BBQ, having a non-alcoholic beer (of course) or sleeping on the grass, while in the evening you may find yourself in the middle of a crazy, tumultuous concert! Swimming is allowed, so bring your trunks.
CONCLUSION
As the summers get hotter every year, it’s becoming increasingly hard to find places that have it all: a rich culture, appealing looks and a touch of nature that’s intertwined with the city sights. Zagreb may very well be the sweet spot you’re looking for. When you’re thinking of a place to cool off, cool down and cool out - think Zagreb!
Header image credit: Julien Duval
Author: Boris Stojanović