The History and Tradition of Advent in Zagreb

Early Advent Customs in Zagreb

Imagine Zagreb in the Middle Ages, quiet and serene during Advent. The narrow streets of the then-Kaptol district were filled with the scent of incense and candle wax, while church bells called people to prayer and togetherness. At that time, Advent was a period of quiet reflection and spiritual preparation. People lit candles in their windows, symbolizing the anticipation of Christ’s birth.

One of the most important symbols was the Advent wreath, handcrafted from evergreen branches and adorned with red ribbons. Each candle on the wreath was lit on one of the four Advent Sundays, symbolizing hope, peace, joy, and love. The wreath became the centerpiece of family gatherings, often accompanied by prayer and Christmas caroling.

At the markets, modest and small in those days, people could find handmade crafts and simple gifts for their families, such as candles, wooden ornaments, or treats made from honey and nuts. There was joy in preparing for the holidays, but always with an emphasis on preserving the peace and simplicity that characterized Advent during that era.

Family Christmas: Tradition Through the Ages

For families in Zagreb, Advent has always been a special time of togetherness. As the days grew shorter and the winter colder, families gathered in warm rooms, often filled with the scent of cinnamon and freshly baked cakes. Preparing for Christmas was a true family project – everyone had their role. Children crafted paper and straw ornaments for the Christmas tree, while older family members kneaded dough for walnut rolls and gingerbread.

In villages around Zagreb, a unique tradition involved making beeswax candles. These candles symbolized purity and hope and were gifted on Christmas Eve along with blessings and good wishes for the coming year.

Christmas trees were modestly decorated. Apples, walnuts wrapped in golden paper, and traditional heart-shaped licitar cookies were the most common ornaments, with handmade stars or angels crowning the top of the tree. The fresh scent of pine filled the homes, while children eagerly awaited gifts, often hidden in wooden chests or under the table.

A Spiritual Start to the Day

One of the most beautiful traditions preserved to this day is the "zornice," early morning masses marking the beginning of each day during Advent. Imagine the cold winter mornings in Zagreb, with the dark silhouette of the Kaptol Cathedral emerging through the fog. The sound of bells invited believers to prayer, while the light of candles illuminated the windows of homes.

Walking to church, people carried small lanterns or candles to light their way. Inside the church, the sense of community was palpable – from warm greetings to the shared singing of hymns celebrating hope and the coming of the Savior. The zornice were more than a religious custom; they symbolized the unity of the entire city, a place where people met and shared the joy of anticipation.

Christmas Carols and the Joy of Music

Christmas carols, or “kolende,” were another significant part of Advent traditions. In Zagreb, they were sung in churches, as well as in squares and streets. Choirs brought people together with their songs, creating a warm atmosphere on cold winter nights. In villages around Zagreb, children and adults went “house to house,” singing and bringing good wishes to their neighbors.

Each carol carried a special message – from hope and gratitude to the joy of Christmas. These songs were more than music; they were an expression of emotions and a way of sharing joy with others.

A Modern Fairytale with Historical Roots

Today, Advent in Zagreb is renowned worldwide. Millions of twinkling lights, stalls with handcrafted goods, and the aromas of traditional fritters create a magical ambiance that draws visitors from all corners of the globe. Yet, despite its modern elements, the spirit of bygone days remains present.

Every Advent wreath, every song, and every candle on the streets of Zagreb tells a story of generations past who celebrated this magical time of year. Visitors today can explore the Grič Tunnel, skate at the Ice Park, or stroll through Zrinjevac Park, all while feeling a connection to history through preserved traditions like Christmas choirs and handmade crafts.

The Scents and Flavors of Advent

Advent in Zagreb would never be complete without the tastes and aromas that define it. Mulled wine, fritters, and "germknedle" are favorites at Advent stalls, but many families still cherish old recipes for walnut rolls, poppy seed strudels, and gingerbread cookies.

The gastronomy of Advent reflects centuries-old traditions, with every bite telling a story of warm family gatherings and the joy of awaiting Christmas.

We invite you to experience Advent in Zagreb this winter. As you walk through the decorated streets and listen to the sounds of Christmas songs, remember that every ornament, every melody, and every scent carries the spirit of times gone by. Advent in Zagreb is not just a festival – it is a bridge connecting generations in the celebration of love, togetherness, and hope.

Author: Tanja Rubčić
Heading photo: S. Cerić Kovačević