A Journey Through Zagreb’s Coffee Culture

If you spend even a few hours in Zagreb, you’ll notice one thing right away: people take their coffee seriously. But it’s not just about the drink itself—it’s about the ritual. Coffee in Zagreb isn’t something you grab in a paper cup while rushing to work. No, it’s a moment to pause, chat, watch the world go by. It’s an experience.

But have you ever wondered where this culture comes from? Why do Zagrebians have this deep, almost sacred connection to coffee? Let’s take a walk through time and explore the forgotten coffeehouses, famous cafés, and the unique history that made Zagreb’s coffee scene what it is today.

A Glimpse into the Past

Velika kavana; Source: Skyscrapercity.com

The story of coffee in Zagreb begins in the 18th century, nearly seventy years after Vienna opened its first café. The first recorded coffeehouse owner in Zagreb was Valentinus Oro (Horro) in 1756, and back then, coffee was an exotic luxury rather than an everyday pleasure. Can you imagine what it must have been like? A dimly lit room, the scent of roasted beans filling the air, aristocrats sipping coffee from delicate porcelain cups.

By the late 18th and early 19th centuries, new names began shaping the coffee scene. Entrepreneurs like Josephus Delavina from Belgium (1777), Joannes Szoltner (1778), and Franciscus Blei from Austria (1779) opened coffeehouses that catered to Zagreb's growing population. These places weren’t just about coffee—they were gathering spots, hubs of gossip, politics, and business.

One of the earliest known coffeehouses was Kaffehhaus Fortuna, which opened in 1832 on Markov Trg. The owner, Joannes Göschl, ran it in the same building where the city pharmacy operated until 1907. I can only imagine the conversations that took place there, the debates between politicians and artists, the hurried footsteps of newspaper boys delivering the latest headlines...

Zagreb’s Forgotten Coffeehouses & The Magic of Old Photographs

Gundulić Street - Kavana Korso; Source: Digitalne zbirke Nacionalne i sveučilišne knjižnice u Zagrebu

There’s something magical about old photographs, don’t you think? I recently stumbled upon one from 1902, showing Kavana Kačić in Mesnička Street. The photo is over a hundred years old, worn by time, but you can still make out gentlemen in suits gathered in front of the café, women carrying laundry on their heads, children peeking curiously inside.

Kačić was named after Andrija Kačić Miošić, a Croatian poet and Franciscan friar. And fun fact: if you visit the corner of Mesnička Street and Ilica, you’ll still find his statue standing there today. A small, quiet reminder of the coffeehouse that once gave life to this part of the city. But Kačić wasn’t alone.

By 1900, Zagreb had 25 coffeehouses, rivaling cities like Vienna and Paris. Some of the most famous included:

• Narodna kavana – The intellectuals’ meeting spot.

• Kavana Bauer – The go-to place for artists and bohemians in Frankopanska Street.

• Kavana Corso – A journalist’s paradise.

• Kavana Palainovka – One of the few that still exists today, once a casual hangout for students and professors.

• Kavana Royal – A classic spot for the city’s high society.

• Kavana Danica – Known for its elegant ambiance and literary clientele.

• Kavana Merkur – A favorite among merchants and traders.

• Kavana Paris – A hotspot for sophisticated evening gatherings.

• Kazališna kavana – Located near the theater, this café was a haunt for actors and playwrights.

The clientele varied from venue to venue, reflecting the diverse makeup of Zagreb’s society and illustrating how coffee shops enabled individuals to fully express their social identities and potentials.

When Coffee Came on Wheels: The Moving Cafés of Zagreb

Here’s a fun one: Zagreb once had coffee carts on wheels! In the late 19th century, mobile coffee vendors, known as Kaffebuden, cruised the city, selling fresh coffee to passersby. I can’t help but wish we had them today.

Imagine sipping a perfectly brewed espresso from a charming little cart as you walk through Ban Jelačić Square. Now that’s an experience I’d sign up for! 

The Coffeehouse That Wasn’t So Fancy

Not all coffeehouses were elegant and sophisticated. One of the more infamous ones was “K vječnom svjetlu”, located where today’s Gradska kavana stands. This wasn’t a place for aristocrats or poets—it was an underground hangout for drunks, gamblers, and vagabonds.

Can you imagine the contrast? One street away, intellectuals debating philosophy over Turkish coffee, and here? A rough crowd throwing dice, shouting over half-drunk cups of the same brew.

It’s fascinating to think about how coffeehouses, even back then, were spaces where people from such different walks of life could have a common passion—just in very different ways!

The Rules of Coffee Drinking in 19th Century Zagreb

Kavana Zagreb; Source: Povijest.hr

Drinking coffee in old Zagreb was far from a casual, laid-back activity - it came with a set of strict rules! According to the 1887 City Statute, the city had very specific regulations about where and when coffee could be enjoyed. In fact, only a select number of establishments were allowed to serve coffee:

• 15 official coffeehouses

• 150 taverns (but they were mostly for drinks, not coffee!)

Coffeehouses weren’t just cozy little spots either. They had to be spacious, with a minimum size requirement of 60 square meters. And, of course, the opening hours were strictly regulated, ensuring that coffee lovers couldn’t indulge whenever they pleased. The hours varied by season:

• Summer: 5 AM – 1 AM

• Winter: 6 AM – Midnight

Imagine living in a time where you couldn’t just grab a late-night cappuccino or head to your favorite café at any hour! No spontaneous 3 AM coffee runs back then. Coffee drinking was a structured, social affair, and the regulations helped shape the café culture that defined Zagreb during that era.

Zagreb’s Coffee Scene Today

Johann Franck; Source: Wall.hr

Zagreb's love for coffee has never faded—it has just evolved. Today, the city boasts everything from historic spots like Palainovka and Kavkaz, to modern specialty coffeehouses serving flat whites, matcha lattes, and nitro cold brews.

Some personal recommendations? If you want to experience old Zagreb, visit Dezman Bar or Botaničar, where vintage aesthetics meet modern vibes. If you're after specialty coffee, Eli's Caffé is a must-visit. And for a place that still holds the spirit of the past? Johann Franck is perfect for watching the city go by while enjoying a traditional espresso.

But one thing never changes: coffee in Zagreb isn’t just a drink, it’s an invitation to slow down, talk, and enjoy life. So, next time someone asks you, "Idemo na kavu?" (Shall we go for coffee?), remember—they’re not just asking you for a caffeine fix. They’re inviting you into a tradition that has lasted centuries.

Author: Valentin Preložiček