While walking
During these summer days, the streets are packed with tourists. Most of the locals fled to the seaside and the brave ones that stood ground comfort themselves with a fact that at least now it is easy to find a free parking space in the city center.
There are a few spots in the city where I feel peaceful and where I often go when I am in need of answers. Back in the day, a bench on Zrinjevac square solved a lot of my love problems or better said affairs. I would take a seat, light a Marlboro light cigarette and dwell upon everything.
This scenario would bring me comfort and joy, and most of all it would bring me solutions. Somehow all the worries came into a new perspective, an easily manageable one. Since then, I had outgrown the cigarettes and the bench, and my whole being started to require different landscapes and horizons to help me with my troubled thoughts.
This is a story of the Upper town, my reader
Looking back over my shoulder, I caught a glimpse of the shortest funicular in the world going to sleep. It's after 10 p.m., so it is no longer operational. Throughout the day, it has brought joy to people taking a ride to Upper town. I appreciate it mostly because it is one of my best wingman’s city has to offer. I do not want to brag, but in less than 60 seconds there are a lot of romantic things you can say to a girl, and the ride ends with a spectacular view of Zagreb rooftops. And a kiss, if you know what you are doing.
Even though the majority of people decide to take this means of transportation, I would advise alternative routes. The most beautiful parts of the city are passages and stairways that connect the new downtown Zagreb with the elevated historical part. Get lost in the beauty of Zakmardijeve or Felbinger stairs and find your inner peace. I love Upper town at this particular time because it is not crowded with people. A mixture of different emotions overwhelms me every time I roam these streets.
Why, you ask?
Well, on one hand you have to take into consideration that this part dates from the 13th century and all the stories these streets have to offer. On the other hand, present day Upper town is quite charming, romantic and mysterious. It can be lovers get away because it has got all the right moves and vibes. Notice the oldest paraffin lamps that are hand lit every night and are proudly illuminating their surroundings. Hidden mysterious courtyards are easily reachable. Just be brave, open the gates and enter.
During the touristic season, they have ongoing manifestations that include music and exhibits. Wooden benches with that romantic flair are also frequent. Actually, one of my favorite figures of Zagrebliterally history is here. A sculpture of Mr. Matos on a bench observing the city. Give Matos a hug and take a photo with him, he doesn't mind. Although every touristic brochure will put emphasis on a cannon that scares away the pigeons, a picturesque tile rooftop of a church or the medieval fortification, this part of Zagreb is manifesting itself quite differently to me. It awakens my inspiration.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
Every stroll I take makes me feel I am a part of something bigger. It is almost like my blood stream feels the history and significance of these landmarks. While standing in front of St Mark’s church, I think about early Zagreb, the nucleus of the city and how it all started.
Zagreb economic development started on this square with first fairs
This was the focal gathering point and the beating heart of Upper Town. One of the biggest mutiny in feudal times was ended here with the execution of Matija Gubec. Our independence was proclaimed in our Parliament building. The bitter and the sweet, we had it all.
Nevertheless, the highlights for me are the side streets. Sometimes you have to go behind the scenes to capture the real beauty. The ones that don’t catch your eye immediately. While I am walking here, everything comes in harmony. My eyes feast on the old architecture and facades. I balance my thoughts while enjoying the scenery. I always find my peace of mind. Come as you are and explore.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
If you want to avoid the limelight and focus on yourself in a tranquil environment, absorb the streets of Upper town by night. You will not regret it. So catch me in one of my walks, I am buying a ‘’gemišt’’ drink, and we can talk some more. But most of all, my dear reader: #loveZagreb.
Header Image Credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak
Author: Filip Donadić