What an Englishman knows about Zagreb?

It is a little ironic that today it is the capital city of the country I and my family call home. 

I have visited Zagreb many times over the years, getting to know it slowly, branching out from the historic centre. Kaptol, the magnificent cathedral and the warren of streets and cosy bars which form the historic core were the early magnets, but it didn't take long for me to explore further afield. 

Zagreb is a very green capital and I was delighted to learn of the Lenucci Horseshoe in the heart of the city, seven magnificent parks in a 'U' shape, taking one through the historic squares of the city's centre. The horseshoe was named after the architect who designed them, an impressive order on the urban landscape.

Nikola Subic Zrinski square. Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak

'Order' is a word that often comes to me on a visit to Zagreb after a long stay on the Dalmatian coast. There, where time is relative, life seems a world away to this modern European city, whose Austro-Hungarian heritage has left its indelible mark.

And modern Zagreb most certainly is. As the EU's youngest capital, the expansion of Zagreb is a symbol of the good times around the corner for the city, as its tourism expands rapidly. There is increased interest from the Far Each – China, Korean, Japan – and the direct flights from Qatar and Dubai are perhaps the start of Zagreb's journey as an important inter-continental transport hub. To the West too, Toronto will once again be connected directly from June, and the American ambassador has called for direct links with the States.

Statue of Antun Gustav Matos. Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak

Zagreb is a city of museums and galleries, documenting the traditions and heritage of this magnificent city. And while the majority pay testament to the treasures of the past, it is a much newer concept – the Museum of Broken Relationships – which has arguably become the city's most famous museum on the international scene, and one which attracts people from all over the world. There are no national boundaries when it comes to broken relationships.

And while the sea may be far away, there are plenty of other natural attractions in the city, including Lake Jarun, a fabulous family destination and water sports centre. And how many other cities in the world can host an international ski event in its suburbs, as Sljeme does each December with the Snow Queen Trophy? Snow in winter, perfect hiking territory in spring – there are plenty of options to escape the pressures of the city if necessary.

Ilica street. Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak

One of the first impressions that struck me on my first arrival in the city were the trams. A form of transport which has all but died out back in the UK, and they don't exist Dalmatia-way, but the seamless way commuters glided around the city was a sight to behold. Once you get the hang of it, the tram system is comprehensive and user-friendly indeed.

And as the country's capital and largest city, Zagreb is a magnet for the arts and the alternative, and beneath that ordered exterior lies a vibrant youth scene keen to express itself, and yours to discover.

In an age where most tourist destinations have already been discovered, I feel that Zagreb is still a little hidden away, a city that perhaps few – as I as a child – know a lot about, which makes the discovery of it all the greater pleasure when seen up close. But as the world is changing, and Zagreb comes more into the European family, expanding its tourism with its long-distance flights, Zagreb too will change, and it would be a pity to miss this green, ordered and very charming city the way it is now. 

Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak

Author: Paul Bradbury