Heartbeat of Zagreb

The Square

As every local knows, when you don’t name the square, you are talking about the main one.

My location, the Square. As every local knows, when you don’t name the square, you are talking about the main one. Every other needs an introduction, but this one has a reputation that precedes him. I will give you a hint, there is a big horse statue with a viceroy even more famous than the horse. The name of the horse is Emir, let’s not neglect this information. A stream of people surrounds me. Not that long ago there was a stream called Medvescak here. A natural border between the two medieval settlements the city originates from. I am observing the crowd. Listening carefully, letting my mind being filled with their stories. There are a lot of foreigners, many nationalities within reach. I have the entire world in my view. I can travel the globe in a second just by focusing on the dynamics every tourist is offering. Asian people with selfie sticks and joy in their eyes also bring happiness to me while observing them. Zagreb is a big melting pot, and it has been like that for centuries, from all of the alliances and countries the city has been part of till the present day when it's full of tourists. The visitors bring new colors and specters on the street. Just like the facades of buildings that are proudly standing in front of me. Take a look at them and give them a shout out. Some of them are really old, and some of them have hidden gems. Do not look at the one with a shopping mall, but rather focus on the one marked with a relief of our world famous sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. You will be impressed.

 


Ivan Mestrovic relief. Photo by Filip Donadic.


To be honest, my gluteus is positioned here with a purpose. It's quite difficult to express your love towards Zagreb while typing it on your laptop in your working environment. You need to hit the streets and embrace them! Is there a better spot than the focal point of the city? Although I am currently writing on my smartphone please disregard this. For the sake of this article, let’s pretend I am using a piece of paper and a pen. Zagreb and the mechanical pencil go a long way; they are in a ''father-son'' relationship. No, I haven't gone crazy from the sun that is throwing its rays in my face. I am recalling Mr. Penkala, a famous inventor from Zagreb that is best known for inventing the mechanical pen. Remember this next time you use it. Google the man, if nothing else you will admire the shape of his mustache that was cooler than Tom Selleck's, sorry Tom!


All of a sudden she smiles at me and asks: ''What are you doing? For the last 5 minutes you have been typing in your cell phone and smiling.'' '' I am writing an article for #loveZagreb'', I reply with an even bigger smile. With confidence and charm I continue: ''You will be in it''. Long story short, the last few lines I dedicate to you my beautiful stranger, next time I'm buying you a cup of coffee ;) This little act of seduction got me thinking. The women of Zagreb are extraordinary beautiful and easily approachable. They always have a smile waiting for you. Do not believe me? Just walk through the town center, sometimes you will be under impression you're walking next to a catwalk. Since it is practically impossible to verbalize the visual in the appropriate measure, allow your eyes to feast while your mind reaches the verdict. Luckily, when mentioning Marija Juric Zagorka, the decision is unanimous and decisive. She was one of the greatest women that walked the streets of Zagreb. Our first female journalist and one of the most famous Croatian authors of all time! She had the strength, in men’s world, to use a pseudonym and pretend to be a male author to get published. Even though her work was discredited at that time, she managed to become a symbol of rebellion and fight for women rights. Things have changed today. Zagreb is a liberal and avant-garde European metropolis.

 

Ban Jelacic. Photo by Filip Donadic.


In the last decades, all the major events from political to sport life have been commemorated on the Square. The people of Croatia cried, smiled, danced and fought for their rights here. The first that comes to my mind is the Radio 101 protest from 1996. The year when people of Zagreb decided to show their attitude and save the only completely free and uncensored radio station of that time. The government wanted to terminate the only station that was not in their pocket or better said their marionette. An estimated 120 000 people gathered on the Square with candle lights to form a peaceful protest to save the 101 from shutting down. They were victorious! Some say this was the biggest battle against censorship in our modern history! The people of Zagreb took a stand for democracy and freedom of speech. So, tune in to 101 MHz and hear them out, they are still on air! While we are talking about revolutionary acts, I will gladly dedicate a sentence or two to our famous contemporary artist Toma Gotovac. In his performance from 1981 entitled ‘‘Zagreb, I love you'' he ran naked from Ilica street towards the Square kissing the asphalt. It's an understatement to say that people of Zagreb were shocked. In memory of that, his footprints are engraved in Ilica street.

 


Tomislav Gotovac: Zagreb, I love you. Photo by Filip Donadic.


Every citizen of Zagreb has a story about the Square. It has become a part of our identity and one of our favorite meeting points. If you are from Zagreb, you will know where to meet. Next to the clock naturally! So, if you already feel domestic, do not stand next to the statue of Jelacic like all the new corners in the city. Just choose your path and start walking. Something always happens. And remember, Zagreb is not its buildings, it’s the city of people and their stories. Check them out, hear them out and love Zagreb.

Header image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board, Marko Vrdoljak

Author: Filip Donadic