Cmrok: The place beyond the Pines
One of the essential parts of Zagrebian identity is enjoying its beautiful greenery and hills. With Medvednica mountain and Sljeme peak to explore, one of the hidden gems of the aforementioned mountain is definitely Cmrok, a spacious meadow on the northern slopes. Untouched by the modern technology and premises of postmodern insecurity, Cmrok is a place where Zagrebians go to remind themselves that humans are, after all, a part of nature.
So, if while talking to some locals, you get an answer that Cmrok is a place to go to relax, believe it. Because, although more than million people know about it charms, it is never crowded. Cmrok is a secret well kept by Zagrebians, like some kind of safe place to go to when in need of a place to think or recuperate. It is quite peaceful, and there is a certain charm in that peace.
Image credit: Lana Suša
If you just get fed up with sightseeing the city or just living between the concrete walls, just hop on the bus number 105 on the British Square (Britanac) which will take you right to our little oasis. Or, if you are feeling adventurous, you should fulfil your need for quest with a half an hour walk from the Upper Town or British square to Cmrok, situated between Tuškanac, Upper town’s Jurjevska street and Gornje Prekrižje area.
The moment you reach the hill you will feel the smell of pines and loads of fresh air filling your nostrils and lungs. There are plenty of things to do in this historical hill, and all of them include one thing: complete timeliness. The Cmrok you see now is the same Cmrok that was here fifteen, fifty and two hundred years ago, and it is absolutely fabulous that this place is completely untouched by the hand of time.
Image credit: Lana Suša
Whether your motives to come here were metaphysical or purely recreational, or whether you come alone or with your family, we can assure you that nobody will bother you on Cmrok. So, get out your blanket, a book or a frisbee and do your thing! You can, as the matter of fact, be interrupted only by few dogs running around with their owners. Green oasis during the spring and summer, but a pretty decent sledging hill during the winter, which is the only time of the year when Cmrok is crowded with people.
Except extraordinary spacious meadow and peace and quiet, Cmrok has one more thing to offer its visitors: the legend of its beginnings. There were stories among Zagrebians that Cmrok got its name in the 18th century after the spruce tree that surrounds it, which in Croatian is pronounced 'smreka'.
Image credit: Lana Suša
But I prefer the other legend, the more mysterious one. There was a story that, in the 19th century Cmrok had a secret tavern held by certain Mr. Rok. The entrance was allowed only to the chosen ones. And hence, Zagrebians fell under the great influence of the German language and culture during the past centuries. The secret code for the tavern was 'Let's go zum Rok', which, in German means 'Let's go at Rok's'. With time, the term domesticated and 'Cmrok' was born!
With its beautiful view overlooking the town and its beautiful surroundings spiced up with historical myths and legends, what's there not to like about Cmrok? From the first step on the grass to coming down from the hill to the city again, it truly is a love at first sight.
Header image credit: zgportal.com
Author: Lana Suša