Tripe – From Stomach to Stomach

As I was a picky eater as a child, nothing could force me to try this strange and unattractive dish that my father loved. For me, tripe was the unit of measurement for yuckiness. Only later did my taste buds flourish and I gradually transformed into the all-round gourmand that I am now, but the tripe was a taboo for quite a while. I guess it had something to do both with the smell and the appearance.

“Lighter version of tripe, with potato and no bacon.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Well, I finally tried the tripe in my early 30s, quite late for a person who whose culinary slogan is „I'll try anything“. And it happened at a tripe cooking competition organized by a local tripe lovers club (yeah, we have a few of those). I really couldn't ask for a better occasion. I can't say that it immediately soared up very high on my personal favourites chart, but I was pleasantly surprised, questioning why I had resisted so long something that was actually quite tasty and not smelly or tough at all. When I tried tripe Florence style (trippa alla fiorentina) a bit later, prepared by an Italian chef working in Zagreb at the time, our love was sealed. I don't eat it every week, maybe not even every month, but when I stumble upon a pot of carefully and lovingly prepared tripe, I go for it.

“(Occasional) daily lunch special at Bistro Šalša.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Here we call it tripice, in standard Croatian. Locally it is known as fileki – deriving from the German Flecke. The dish itself is known all across the Mediterranean and other parts of Europe, where it was part of the standard poor man's menu. Yes, its main and eponymous ingredient is the edible lining from a cow's stomach. In the old days, it was only normal and logical to use the whole animal and not waste any of the valuable food resources, especially as scarce as meat. So when life gave you a cow's stomach, you would cook it. Of course, this required cleaning and washing the stomach thoroughly several times, which is neither a simple nor enjoyable procedure. Then you'd have to cut it into small pieces. When all this is done, the funny odour and slimy appearance gone, the tripe finally looks a bit more appealing. Luckily, nowadays you can buy it already cleaned, cut, even partially cooked. Usually the second chamber stomach is used, so called honeycomb tripe, as it is the tenderest.

“No fuss, buy the tripe already cleaned and cut from your local butcher.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

An amazing number of tripe recipes is found across Europe, depending not only on the country, but also on the region within a country. It is a one-pot dish, almost always eaten with a spoon, but the thickness, spiciness level and ingredients vary a great deal. In Zagreb, the typical tripe version is called špek fileki, meaning bacon tripe. Quite clearly, it is upgraded with bacon, while other regular ingredients include onion, root vegetables, tomato paste, and sweet paprika. Sometimes potato is added, while some more adventurous variations can also contain mushrooms or beans. Don't forget to serve it with some grated hard cheese. Somewhat different kinds of tripe, not typical for continental Croatia but inspired by Dalmatian heritage, include lamb or fish (tuna or monkfish) tripe.

“Fine dining version – monkfish tripe.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Popular and common in the past, stigmatized later, the tripe has never really disappeared, only kept a low profile for a while. Rediscovered, it found its place not only as a staple working class lunch in traditional eateries, but also on the menus of fine bistros and high-end restaurants. Give it a chance, you might even like it. My favourite Zagreb spots for a bowl of tripe are currently Mlinarica, Bistro Šalša and Bicko.

Header Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Morana Zibar / Taste of Croatia