The Season for Portugizec

The French have their famous Beaujolais nouveau, and Plešivica, the tiny wine region only half-an-hour drive from Zagreb, has its own special thing. It’s called Portugizec and luckily, we don’t have to wait until the third Tuesday in November for the launch, like in France. It’s out there from early November, culminating with the feast for St. Martin’s Day, the most important holiday in the wine lovers’ calendar. Portugizec is a true winter’s companion, and by the end of January the stocks are almost gone, having served their God-given purpose.

“Typical label for young Portugizec, made to be enjoyed immediately.” Image credit: Julio Frangen

Despite the long tradition, Portugizec is not ours to claim. Its origin is German or Austrian (definitely nothing to do with Portugal), and historically it has been grown in large parts of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. You don’t hear much about it on the global wine scene, because Portugizec grapes are not highly regarded and don’t make big or prestigious wines. The grapes ripen early, the yield is high, the alcohol content low, so this red variety gives rather dull wines. But this is exactly why it is destined to be produced and consumed as young wine, bottled and launched immediately after the fermentation and clarification. While Beaujolais is produced using carbonic maceration, Portugizec must ferments after the grapes are pressed.

“Roast chestnuts and Portugizec, one of the best combinations in late autumn.” Image credit: Julio Frangen

Refreshing, light and fruity, slightly astringent and pleasantly acidic, Portugizec is perfect when paired with heavy seasonal dishes like blood sausages and sauerkraut, buncek (pork shank) with restani krumpir (boiled potato sauted with lard and onion), or roast duck or geese with mlinci pasta. However, it is most often closely associated with roast chestnuts, so many bars will offer this irresistible combination in late autumn.

“Don’t expect a fancy label from young Portugizec, but expect a good easy-drinking wine.” Image credit: Vinoljupci

But is there more to Portugizec than just a simple young wine for one season? Believe it or not, yes. When made properly and with care, a serious Portugizec can age and compete on equal terms with many more popular mid-range red wines. Participation of Plešivica winemakers at the international Portugieser Du Monde festival held last spring in Hungary showed there’s a lot of potential. Some renowned winemakers, like Korak or Šember, are known to age their Portugizec bottles for several years. Tomac Rose Brut, from one of Croatia’s top sparkling wine producers, is a fine blend of Chardonnay and portugizec. Young and ambitious winemaker Krešimir Ivančić presented the first Croatian red sparkling wine made only from Portugizec grape, appropriately called the Dark Side. Moreover, he also produces Portugizec aged in barrique oak barrels. So feel free to wash down your favourite autumn/winer dishes with plain young Portugizec, but be bold and save some of the good stuff for later, too.

“Krešimir Ivančić and his sparkling labels, two of which made only from Portugizec grapes.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

“Martin je v Zagrebu” is a traditional event centred around Martinje (St. Martin’s Day) and the custom of baptizing young wine, taking place on Zagreb’s central square from November 5 to 12. This could very well be your best opportunity to meet many faces of Portugizec coming from local wineries and pair it with traditional homemade food.

Header image credit: Julio Frangen

Author. Taste of Croatia