Rakija – That’s the Spirit!

Whenever someone goes abroad and has to bring a sample of our national booze, a bottle of premium rakija is the first choice. Present throughout Europe under different names and styles, this hard liquor based on grape pomace or fruit really thrives in Croatia. It will be the first thing offered when you come to someone's home, or a traditional restaurant, and also the last thing, to wash down the meal. It's the number one drink when we make a toast, seal a deal, celebrate something or drown our sorrows. And of course, if you ask the older folks, rakija is the remedy for almost all ailments, either rubbed in or gulped down.

“Homemade plum brandy, can’t get any purer than this.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

The procedure is an ancient one. You take fermented fruit and distill it. This transparent liquor can later be mixed with herbs or other fruits to get various flavours. There are dozens and dozens of different kinds out there. We Croats are really creative in this field – give us anything, we'll make rakija out of it.  As a strong drink with around 40% alcohol by volume, it needs to be sipped slowly and responsibly, so it's served in a small shot glass, which has many regional names, but in Zagreb lingo it's known as štamprlek. Try to pronounce that after a few shots! And don’t forget two ground rules – you never have rakija “on the rocks”, and you really don’t have to gulp it bottoms-up, like they do in the movies.

“Add some herbs to the basis and you get special flavour and colour like this.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

The production of homemade rakija used to be a common, traditional ritual for families in the country, but now it's becoming rarer, especially in quantities larger than for your own modest needs. No worries, there is plenty of rakija around us, more than enough, but it's getting harder to find the good stuff. That's why people always like to praise and glorify a good bottle – when your host offers you a glass, you're very likely to hear a speech about its origin, how special it is and how “they just don’t make them like that anymore”. The style and flavour of the rakija you are drinking depends on geography, or where in Croatia you are located. On the coast it’s mostly grape-based and infused with Mediterranean herbs and fruits, while on the continent it’s mostly fruit distillates made from apple, pear, plum, quince, apricot... People always used what they had at hand and what was plentiful.

“Old-school home-made plum brandy in progress.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Although the most praised rakijas come from regions like Slavonia and Lika (plum), Dalmatia (herbs) and Istria (mistletoe), countryside around Zagreb is no stranger to a good brandy. The most prestigious rakija in this area is probably viljamovka – made from the aromatic Williams pear. In the section of colourless, pure fruit distillates, apple and plum come second, while sour cherry or apricot are also present, but not that common. As it is quite neutral, apple brandy is often used as the basis for other brandies or liqueurs. Medovača or medica, honey brandy, is quite popular, and those who find distilled rakija too strong also prefer its upgrade into blueberry, sour cherry or walnut liqueur.

“When competition is tough, it’s crucial to have good marketing skills.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

My favourite place in Zagreb for a shot of rakija is Cheese Bar, just off the central square. Although the name wouldn’t suggest it, they have a great selection. Number two would be Krolo bar in Radićeva, mostly because of the setting that catapults you back to the socialist 1980s. And on number three I put the small and vibrant Heritage deli/bistro, with their limited but top-quality line-up. So when in Croatia, do what Croatians do – have a rakija a day because it will do you good.

“Rakija trio – herbs, sour cherry and honey – in the legendary Krolo bar.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Morana Zibar / Taste of Croatia