Gastro

Poppy Seeds for the Sweet Tooth

If somebody mentions poppy seeds and the first you imagine is either opium or fields of red flowers, then you're obviously not so familiar with the nutritional and gourmet values of this plant.

Otherwise, you'd be picturing poppy seed bread rolls and many other fine things made with those tiny black seeds. The use of poppy seeds in cooking is especially deeply rooted and common in the traditional cuisines of Central Europe, Croatia being no exception. We are even one of the bigger producers of poppy seeds in the world. As the crucial, flavour-giving ingredient you'll mostly find it in continental, northern Croatia.


“The perfect balance of the dough and filling in a hand-made makovnjača cake.” Image credit: Nikl bakery

The most famous and iconic poppy seed based dish is the traditional dessert called makovnjača (yes, it's related to the equaly famous walnut-based orehnjača). This simple cake consisting of rolled sweet yeast dough and poppy seed filling is not a Croatian invention, because it's found throughout the Central and Eastern Europe. Although it is present all year round, it's typically eaten on Christmas and Easter holidays. In times when there was no chocolate or other fancy dessert ingredients, our grandmas used all they could find to create this modest but filling cake as the special treat for a festive holiday feast. What's also quite important is that it doesn't need to be refrigerated and it can last for days.


“Giving some of the local and seasonal flavours to the classic macron.” Image credit: Artisan Crafted Chocolates

Even though it's far from being a lost art now, preparing a makovnjača at home is definitely something more common for the older generations. Luckily, you can also buy it. Of course, the mass-produced bakery version can't come close to the hand-made one, so I advise you to be on the lookout for home-made poppy seed rolls from the old vendors at Zagreb's farmers markets during the holiday season. There will alwasy be the dilemma – makovnjača or orehnjača? It's unresolved, like the Beatles or the Stones question, both have armies of fans. For some people, poppy seeds may be an acquired taste, and personally I'm not too crazy about the little black seeds getting stuck in my teeth, but once you get hooked on the flavour, there's no going back and you learn to appreciate it.


“Modern age poppy seed cake with no gluten, but lots of flavour.” Image credit: Katin kruh

Other desserts with poppy seeds are possible, too. The most popular one is called mak kocke, literally meaning poppy seed cubes. This easy tray-baked cake usually combines poppy seeds with chocolate, and there are many slightly different recipes out there, somethings including grated apples, even some apricot or plum jam. One of the most famous traditional northern Croatian cakes – međimurska gibanica – has a poppy seed layer among others. If you want a modern take and show all your creativity, poppy seeds are a good material for experimenting. For example, pastry chef Petra Jelenić makes an amazing macron with poppy seeds and blackcurrant, available at Artisan Crafted Chocolates shop. Or take the yummy poppy seed, lemon and honey ice cream from Medenko. And something exotic at the end... Some of you will find it bizarre, but for others this dish is a time machine taking them back to childhood days. It's not easy to find tjestenina s makom (pasta with poppy seeds) anymore. Most often using spaghetti or a homemade version of broad, flat strips of pasta, it was something between proper food and dessert, an ideal dinner for school kids.


“Poppy seeds give an extra kick to home-made ice cream.” Image credit: Slatka tvornica Medenko

You've probably heard that the consumption of food with poppy seeds can result in a false positive drug test, and in some countries they're even prohibited. While most of you probably will never get in a situation like that, just relax and enjoy the fact that it's easy to get addicted to poppy seeds in food, but without any negative side effects or legal repercussions.


“Strange, old-fashioned but sweet and tasty dish – pasta with poppy seeds.” Image credit: Klub papica

 

Header image credit: CroChef / Zagreb Tourist Board

Author: Morana Zibar / Taste of Croatia