Orahovac – Walnut in a Glass
Let's just take the famous continental orehnjača, or walnut roll, as the finest example. Or the popular Christmas cookies called vanilin kiflice (vanilla crescents) found all over the territory of the former Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Pancakes filled with walnuts are a classic. Either ground, chopped or halved, many recipes rely on these nuts.
“Orehnjača is the most common walnut-based dessert in north-western Croatia.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
The reason why they are so common in traditional local desserts is because they were available, easily harvested and plentiful. In those days when sugar was expensive and fancy things like chocolate were a luxury, or even unknown, that was an important argument. There was enough to go around, and you could even spare some to make ornaments. For example, walnuts in shells painted with golden colour used to be a traditional Christmas tree decoration in northern Croatia.
“Plenty of walnuts around to use some as Christmas decorations.” Image credit: www.hippopx.com
Apart from being eaten, walnuts can also be turned into a drink. Several European countries have their version of a walnut-based liqueur, for example – Nocino in Italy. Here we have orahovac. It's a thick, dark and strong liqueur made from unripe green walnuts, not a distilled spirit. The base is a neutral pomace or apple brandy, to which you add sugar and unripe walnuts, then keep it in a jar, preferably in sunlight. Spices are also often added, according to your preferences, but there are also people who prefer the pure taste of the walnuts. Yet, often there will be a hint of lemon or orange zest, vanilla, clove, cinnamon. After the magical period of 40 days, the liquid is sieved and bottled. It gets even better after a few months, or a year.
“Spot the green walnut, just waiting to be picked for orahovac.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Orahovac is one of the most popular DIY products in Croatian households, so there's more chance to get served a homemade version than an industrial one. In the suburbs and the countryside you can often spot jars full of unattractive dark liquid placed on window sills or balconies. Late spring and early summer is the period when the nuts are formed, but they are still unripe, resembling little green eggs. If you find one lying on the ground, smell it, they are very aromatic in this stage. There's really no big science behind the procedure, but it's important to have good quality ingredients and know the ratio. And this is where experience plays the crucial part. Orahovac shouldn't be too sweet, too spicy, or too bitter, but somewhere delicately in between.
“Unripe, but perfect to be sliced in half and mixed with sugar and alcohol.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia
Of course, everyone in Croatia will tell you that every homemade rakija (brandy) or liker (liqueur) is actually healthy and good for you. Naturally, when consumed responsibly, in small quantities. Orahovac is the one that will always be listed as the best stomach medicine. It's best to enjoy it as digestif, after a hearty meal. Typically, old ladies like to sip it as part of their afternoon gossip, coffee and biscuit ritual (coffee can actually be omitted). It is a strong drink, but it's certainly lower in alcohol than a regular brandy, plus with the kick of sugar, it's actually one of the most likable liqueurs around. I don't know a person who would turn down a glass of good orahovac. You know, it’s good for you!
“Perković family, one of the biggest liqueur producers from Zagreb surroundings, have orahovac in their portfolio.” Image credit: Perković rakije
Header image credit: Taste of Croatia
Author: Morana Zibar, Taste of Croatia