Autumn Is Here

In elementary school every year we had to write essays on the subject of autumn. The title was usually “Autumn Has Arrived” or something like that. If I had to write something like that again, but only in the context of local food, it would not be a problem. We all know the usual tell-tale signs: the leaves are falling, days are getting shorter, it’s colder in the evening, harvesting is done... But just take a look at the farmers markets and street food in Zagreb and the situation is pretty clear, no matter what the calendar says. So, how can a foodie tell that summer is gone?

“Fight between summer and autumn, between corn and chestnuts.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

The first thing, maybe unperceivable to an unexperienced visitor, is keeping an eye on street food vendors. During summer, especially late summer, many busy street corners will be occupied by vendors selling corn on the cob, either boiled or grilled. The kids love it, but the adults can be quite fond of it, too. Then one day, all of a sudden, the corn is replaced by roast chestnuts. And that’s it - the first real sign of autumn. Yet, if the weather has been changing a lot and we have had an Indian summer, even some of the all-knowing street vendors can get confused. A few days ago I walked from Jelačić Square to Britanski Square and passed by three such vendors. One had only corn, the second one had only chestnuts and the last one had both! OK, things will even out over time, but the point is - as soon as there are chestnuts out there, say bye-bye to summer as we know it. But comfort is to be found in chestnut-based desserts that will soon fill all local patisseries.

“Autumn heralds at Dolac market.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

The second clue is to be found on the markets. Go to Dolac, or any market of your choice, and try to find berries. Only recently there were raspberries, blueberries and blackberries all around. Now you’ll see them at one or two stands, and they’ll be from a greenhouse, not wild. Their place will be taken by piles of apples, pears, plums, grapes, pomegranates. At better stocked markets, this transition period will also be marked by a very short-seasoned and exotic appearance of rose hips and jujube. Still, for Croatians, number one produce that means introduction to autumn/winter season are Neretva Valley tangerines. Even though their season is quite long, the official harvest usually starts at the end of September, so they are true heralds of autumn. And even if the first ones are not so sweet and delicious as the ones in peak season, they will be warmly welcomed, like a good friend you haven’t seen in a while.

“Autumn’s favourite fruit - Croatian tangerines.” Image credit: Taste of Croatia

And now let’s take a look in the vegetable department. There’s still plenty of green stuff left, but let’s say, orange is the new green. When you start seeing more pumpkins and less squashes and zucchinis, you know it’s time to warm up because autumn is here. Young beans are plentiful and the advice is to grab them while you can. The selection of edible wild mushrooms depends on the weather conditions in summer and many other microlocal peculiarities, but in general autumn means you’ll be seeing more of fresh porcini, chanterelles and black trumpets. The saddest thing about the arrival of autumn, at least for me, is saying goodbye to good, flavourful, homegrown tomatoes. Plum tomatoes, oxheart tomatoes and all those beutiful old varieties that you won’t see in supermarkets are drawing their last breaths. Yes, fresh tomato is avaiable all year round, but uncomparable to the richness that’s out there during summer.

“Pumpkin soup for the soul.” Image credit: Tourist Board City of Ivanić-Grad

It takes time and it’s not easy, but when you accept the fact that one more summer is gone and one more autumn is here, let yourself go with the flow. If not sun, there will still be some other light at the end of the tunnel. Young wine and pig slaughter delicacies are just around the corner, and there will be lots of other stuff to keep you going. It’s only natural.

Header image credit: Taste of Croatia

Author: Taste of Croatia