Expats of Zagreb: Story of a Russian Woman Who Moved to London, Then to Zagreb and Now Owns a Chicken Farm
Tell us a bit about yourself. How long have you been living in Zagreb, and where are you from?
Hellooo! I'm Anna, or as I've become known here - Anna the Chicken Chick. I moved to Croatia from London and started a chicken farm Sunce i Meso. I came to Croatia in 2017, but I fell in love with Croatia when I visited in the autumn of 2010. I came one weekend, looked around for a place and left with a farmhouse just outside Zagreb. It all just felt so right!
During my trips to Zagreb, while wandering around the old town streets (and getting lost every time), I imagined my children growing up there - safe, free to roam, with their friends… It reminded me of my childhood in the north of Russia.
I moved to the UK around 2000, with my then-husband and our small daughter. We settled eventually in the South of London, though it was always on the basis that we'd go back to Russia as soon as possible. That never quite happened (for me at least). While in the UK, we had another child, divorced, and went on to build new independent lives. He moved to Russia and then to Kazakhstan and me... well, I married an Aussie and moved to Croatia. :) A place I feel comfortable and at ease, a place that was safe for my children to grow up in, a place that still respects old-fashioned family values and way of life.
During our many trips to Croatia, I tried to bring my children to Zagreb as often as possible - Zagreb is what we've come to call "a human city" - big enough to be a city, small enough to feel still human.
After nearly 20 years in London, I REALLY missed the "human aspect" of life - talking to your neighbors, saying hello to people in the elevator, being able to park your car and get on with your errands without much ado...
Was it hard for you to move and get used to living in a different country?
Moving from London was actually easier than I'd imagined. We'd owned the property where my farm is now for several years before moving. And in those years I wouldn't be exaggerating to say that I'd seen Zagreb blossom. Restoration on the beautiful facades in the town center, international cuisine restaurants, cafes and street-food venues springing up everywhere, Zagreb had opened itself up to the world!
The public transport system here is cool - I LOVE the trams! I wish there were more in Zagrebacka - outside the city.
Can you tell us what the most significant differences between Russia, the UK, and Croatia are?
In a way - I'm probably not good to judge as I come from a similar background. Growing up in Soviet Russia is actually not that dissimilar! My kids, however, I feel, are much better judges of life here and as far as I can tell - they are enjoying it! My son attends a "regular state school" and two school years down the line he STILL thinks school here is waaay better than in the UK.
As for my daughter - she'd managed to find her own two feet to stand on very quickly - she was 19 when we'd moved, and within a few months she was renting and working and living in Zagreb. I know 100% I would NEVER have felt so comfortable with her living and working in the city if it were London (heck, I stressed when she traveled to college every day!!!)
Recently we all went back to London for a week's visit and to be honest all of us couldn't wait to be back in Croatia!
Well, what is it about Zagreb that makes it so special to you compared to London? After all, many would say London has a lot more to offer.
The culture, people, weather... I think you can't even begin to compare those! Sunshine, friendliness, and openness, easy-going... all of those describe Zagreb so well!
As for London, first things that come to mind are: grey, cloudy, often wet, miserable, crowded, expensive, rushed, cold, impersonal - need I continue? I didn't enjoy my time in the UK at all, as you can probably tell.
Sure, many things in the UK are easier at first glance - anything to do with the government is clear and simple. There are dedicated call-centers and web-portals. Bureaucracy is simplified. Running a business is relatively simple. But the day-to-day living is full of stress, the roads are full of cars, and there are cameras everywhere, watching your every move.
Here, getting your paperwork done can be almost a full-time job. Very few people you ask for help actually know the answer to your question - getting accurate information from government employees is quite a task! But you're still dealing with people, here in Croatia. Not some automated call center or web portal. The human element to me is very important.
Did you know much about Zagreb before moving here?
When I first came to Croatia, I knew absolutely nothing about the country. I wanted to move out of the UK, and geographically Croatia was right in the center of Europe. A small country that had everything I was looking for - sun AND snow, sea AND forests, mountains AND planes, waterfalls, rivers, lakes... It was also culturally in the middle - somewhere between the East and the West. So really, it wasn't a difficult decision, but it took a few years to get the house renovated and liveable. I'm still living on what is essentially a building site, but it's a comfortable building site, and the end is in sight! Phew! :)
What is your favorite thing about living in Zagreb and what don't you like about it?
I don't live in Zagreb itself - my farm is just outside, but I take every opportunity I have to spend time in the town. Zagreb is amazing, in my opinion. There's always something going on, events, festivals, music, art... Everything is very accessible. The transport network is excellent, and, most importantly, I always feel safe. Sure, petty crime happens here - it happens everywhere. But, if you follow a few very basic common sense personal safety rules, you'll be fine wherever you go at any time of day or night. In London I had to ALWAYS be on alert, always plan. Some areas were a total no-go, and if you went out in the evening - getting home meant a £60 taxi ride home (public transport late in the evening just wasn't safe!).
Do you have some favorite places to go to in the city?
Bundek! I LOVE Bundek. And Maksimir park. Walking along the river is cool, too. Hrelic market is fun to visit on a Sunday morning every now and again. I like the markets at Kvatric and Britanac (maybe one day I'll be able to sell my chickens there?!) And, somehow I've still not visited the Botanical Garden - I'm very looking forward to that though!
Is there anything you had trouble adjusting to since you moved to Zagreb?
Hmm... Hrvatski! :D I understand about 80% of what is being said to me. Speaking the language is sooo much harder though! I had a few lessons for the first six months after I arrived. But then life just got so busy. There was no time for lessons. So I listened to the radio and spent time speaking to the locals over a glass (or 5 ;) ) of gemischt. There is sooooo much to learn, and like every other foreigner, I think Croatian grammar is just impossible (though my son had managed to master it a heck of a lot better than me).
Header Image Credit: M. Gašparović, TZGZ Download Zona
Author: Darija Ilić