Passage to Happiness
The unknown is so appealing, especially when it is within reach, my dear reader. Change your well know route and open different doors, make a new turn or explore an undiscovered alley. Let's illuminate the side streets of Zagreb.
Dežmanov passage
If you are headed towards the Main square of Zagreb, there is a big chance you will stroll along Ilica Street, one of the oldest and longest streets of Zagreb. It's always hectic and joyful here. People are strolling around, trams are frequent and the sound of the vehicles is always present. It doesn't have to be like this. Walk inside Dežmanov passage and those few steps will lead you to a world free of the turbulence and fuss of modern day life. You will be surprised by the scenery. This charming street leads towards the Tuškanac forest. I like to call it the passage to tranquility. Even though Tuškanac forest was a popular place to burn witches in the 18th century, today it is a perfectly safe and a proper oasis of peace in the town center. Let your lungs breath and embrace the nature surrounding you.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
Hunter's horn
Once again, one of the busiest streets of Zagreb – Ilica Street, houses a beautiful passage. Hunter's horn, or also called Jagerhorn among locals, is a birthplace of the first hotel in Zagreb. You guessed the name of the hotel correctly – Jagerhorn. The initial 19th-century loveliness of the passageway was a bit forgotten and neglected over the last few years. Luckily, a newly renovated and refurbished passage is here to tend to all your needs. If you are looking for a fast way to reach the medieval Upper town of Zagreb, this is an excellent spot. One of the stairways connecting the Lower town with the elevated part is located here, and it will lead you to the most romantic promenade of the city – Strossmayer promenade. This passage will always remain in my memory because of a small shop with handmade jewelry that used to be here. In my teenage days, it was one of the popular places to purchase something for your girlfriend. It brought joy to generations of teenagers in love and to my sweetheart at that time. So Matea M., wherever you are, I am sending my greetings.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
The Octagon
On the grounds of a former medieval cemetery in the late 19th century, the palace of the first savings bank of Croatia was erected. This beauty is a must see. Just focus on the stained glass windows and numerous ornaments on the walls. This passage is also a convenient shortcut between one of the most vibrant squares of Zagreb – Flower square and the long and dynamic street we mentioned two times already. It is always full of life and everything is on the move. You will notice street performers doing their routines or locals rushing towards the square to get that well-deserved coffee break. This passage also cherishes one of the best stories of friendship between people and animals. Outside the Octagon, you will notice a plaque of a construction workers' dog named Pluto. It is here to commemorate the life of Pluto that was killed by the robbers during the construction of the Octagon building. The workers were so devastated so they wanted to treasure the story and memory of him in this way. There are even some rumors that the passage is intertwined with the occult. Allegedly, there are a lot of symbols inside the passage as evidence of that. To put the frosting on the cake, let’s give the Octagon an eerie touch. Be bold and courageous and walk through it!
Image credit: Filip Donadic
Name your passage
It's quite strange, or one could argue even impossible, to misplace or lose a street. Somehow, we have managed to do so. Once upon a time there was a stream called Medveščak that was a natural border between 2 medieval settlements that Zagreb originates from. It was a small stream that ran throughout the city. This brings us to our final passage in the town center. You will find it between the Cathedral and European Square. Our historical stream is no longer there, and because of that, we managed to bring back life and essence to a short passageway. The local authorities remembered the abandoned street where the stream once flowed and decided to renovate it.
Image credit: Filip Donadić
Although this is still a work in progress, I encourage you to visit it. It has that old historical flair which is pretty enjoyable. The local street artists started to express their art inside of it so it is also becoming a playground for your eyes. To my knowledge, the passage does not have an official name yet. Walk it, name it and own it!
Image credit: Filip Donadić
Passages are here to allow you access from one point to another, sometimes even from oblivion to happiness. It’s a path you can choose. Use them frequently and wisely, but most of all #loveZagreb
Header image credit: Marko Vrdoljak/Zagreb Tourist Board
Author: Filip Donadić