Zagreb’s West Side Story: Meet Gajnice - Green and Picturesque Neighbourhood
What do Esad Ribić, Marvel’s comic book illustrator, Lucija Ćustić Luce, a Croatian singer who’s often compared to world-famous Adele, and Milan Badelj, a football player for Croatian national team, all have in common? Well, believe it or not, all these talented people share the same neighbourhood in Zagreb – Gajnice. This quaint, calm, green and cozy part of the city became well known among people of Croatia when Hladno Pivo, one of the Croatia’s most popular punk rock bands, also originating from Gajnice, sang about this particular neighbourhood in their songs. Basically, people in Croatia know all about the uniqueness of Gajnice and now it’s time for the world to learn more about it, as well.
This is the kind of neighbourhood where people still know their neighbours, where they all sit on wooden benches in the park in front of their buildings and talk about their day to each other while watching passengers walking their dogs. This is the kind of neighbourhood where you can go up the hill and admire the sunset on the city horizon, while children’s laughter fills the air because, during warm and sunny days, local kids still play outside after school hours. This is the kind of neighbourhood when Saturdays are reserved for an early morning visit to farmer's market, looking for fresh and organic vegetables, after which people like to sit on the terrace of their favorite coffee bar and read the newspaper while small-talking to their neighbours passing by. If you’re looking for a comfortable oasis just outside of the city rush, with lots of greenery, Gajnice is the place to be.
Image Credit: Paula Bracko
This neighbourhood almost works as a city inside a city – people here have everything they need for a normal and functional life: post office, bank, supermarkets, hair salons, bakeries, sports fields, library, schools, parks… Most importantly, they are very well connected with the rest of the city because buses and trains run so often that you can reach the centre of Zagreb at any time of the day.
Gajnice got its name from Croatian word “gaj”, which means small forest. Once again, this part of the city proves just how deeply rooted it is in nature that surrounds it. There’s even a street called Medpotoki, meaning “between two creeks”, suggesting the village that once stood in this place was located among creeks that existed here a long time ago. Gajnice is stretched from the main Zagreb’s street, Ilica, towards upper parts of Medvenica, hence why so many houses are on small hills and have a gorgeous view of the city.
Beating heart of western Zagreb
My favourite seasons to spend time in Gajnice are spring and autumn. During March and April, when everything is blooming and trees are blossoming, this neighbourhood is amazing for walks around the streets to clear your head. I like to put some tunes and walk my dog, just wandering around and imagining scenarios in my head for people I see along the way. Try it – it’s quite fun.
Autumn is a completely different story. The neighbourhood is bursting with colours. Yellow, orange and red leaves are rustling under your feet, while crisp air is filling your lungs and the first frost is leaning in for an icy hug of every tree in the neighbourhood. People of Gajnice are rushing to warm up at local coffee shops with their friends and chat over apple and cinnamon tea by the window.
Image Credit: Paula Bracko
Since this neighbourhood began developing in the 1940s and 1950s, when it was still on the periphery of Zagreb, a lot of citizens still think of it as a remote part of the city. Still, those who have been there, know the nostalgia that overlays Gajnice. This neighbourhood might not be everyone’s love at the first sight, but for those who live here or feel like they need a bit of countryside in the middle of the city, then Gajnice is the place to be. Just hop on you bike and go around the streets, taking in the vibe of this neighbourhood. Behind one corner you’ll find steep ascent leading you towards Medvednica hills, while another corner will show you a whole new world, one where you’ll have to stop to really realize that water mill is indeed in front of you in the middle of Zagreb.
Going even further into Gajnice’s afforested parts, you’ll reach the edge of the forest at Sljeme and surprise yourself if you decide to take the rest of the road on foot because there is a famous cave Veternica nereby. Basically, wherever you decide to go around Gajnice, you’ll find out that what makes this neighbourhood so great are its people, its green parks, vibrant farmer’s markets, its obvious coherence with nature and its attachment with tradition. It has always been a family-oriented part of Zagreb which is probably a reason why so many people feel comfortable here. Because it feels like home away from home. Or, if you live here, then it really is a home for you and I don’t have to explain it further for you. You could probably write your own love letter to Gajnice.
Header Image Credit: TZGZ Download zona, M. Vrdoljak
Author: Paula Bracko