The Apple’s New Clothes
There are just tons of apples all around and you have to think hard what to do with them. Yes, there's vinegar, brandy, preserves, pies, strudels, compotes, chips and so on. But when you don't want to nibble on a raw one and crave something sweet yet quick and simple, there's no better solution than this old-fashioned and budget-friendly dessert that everyone had at least once in their childhood. You dress your apples in a pastry „dressing gown“, fry them and get jabuke u šlafroku.
“Freshly fried apple in dressing gown.” Image credit: Zvonimir Ferina, Forking Croatia
As often is the case in Zagreb cuisine, the name derives from German language – šlafrok is actually Schlafrock, or dressing gown, which means that the origins of this dish are to be found in our Austrian-Hungarian past. Yet, if you look up Austrian recipes, and then see the Croatian version of this apple-based treat, you'll notice it's not entirely the same. I'd say our dressed apples are more simple, but nonetheless tasty. While many foreign versions of the recipe include some kind of puff pastry for “dressing” the apples, the version that’s popular in Croatia looks more like fried apple rings.
“Peeling and slicing the apples is the first step.” Image credit: Zvonimir Ferina, Forking Croatia
Since the main ingredient is obviously the apple and everything literally revolves around it, the big question is which variety to choose. There’s no unified answer, but it needs to hold its texture, be crisp and have a good balance of sweetness and tartness. I guess my personal picks would be Pink lady, Jonagold, Gala or Fuji. But if you want to make it more authentic, preparing apples in dressing gown is a good opportunity to go to a farmers’ market like Dolac and find something appropriate among many old and neglected local varieties. How will you know them? They are scarce, don’t look very appealing and shiny, and they are sold by the old ladies from Zagreb surroundings that we call kumice. Tell the vendor what you need them for and you’ll probably get a good advice, together with a fun and informative chat.
“Coating the apples with sugar and cinnamon before putting them in the batter for a special effect.” Image credit: Zvonimir Ferina, Forking Croatia
The batter for our apples in dressing gown is similar to the basic crepe batter, only thicker. And you want to enhance it with spice, because apples love to be complemented with a little extra flavour. Usually some cinnamon, rum, vanilla sugar, orange or lemon zest are used. Peeled apple slices without the core are coated in the batter and deep fried, that’s about it. I could give you dozens of ideas on what to serve them with – like powdered sugar, fruit jam, whipped cream, vanilla ice cream, fruit syrup and so on – but I like to stick to what my mom used, and that’s sugar mixed with cinnamon. Whatever you choose, it’s important not to overpower the primary flavour of the apples, because eventually it is all about them.
“Hot and soft on the inside, crispy on the outside.” Image credit: Zvonimir Ferina, Forking Croatia
Jabuke u šlafroku is one of those traditional and simple dishes we immediately connect with home cooking, so it’s close to impossible to find it in restaurants. Vještica bistro in the old town has it on the menu, but that’s more like an exception to the rule. Well, all the more reason to go grab some apples and dress them up!
“Fried apples and cinnamon make a perfect match.” Image credit: Zvonimir Ferina, Forking Croatia
Header image credit: Zvonimir Ferina, Forking Croatia
Author: Morana Zibar / Taste of Croatia